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Sunday, 18 July 2010

Horse Riding Summer Camp

Youngsters may have just seen horses in books, TV, or visiting friends who have horses. They may have a fascination of riding a horse but may not get an opportunity. Not only youngsters, but even women and men have a fascination for riding a horse. People who are Rhodes scholars and mentally challenged do enjoy the thrill of horses and the art of horsemanship. As summer is approaching you may be thinking of sending him to a summer camp but it may be difficult for you select the best one for your child, as there are many camps offering this program. You might be worried as, will the child be safe, what type of horses they will keep in the camp. Which horse would be right for your kid? So here are the answers to all your questions? A summer horse camp is a summer camp with a focus on horses and riding. The camp may run from one day to eight weeks depending upon the program. Some camps do offer longer sessions. Some of them are also coeducational. A horsemanship camp is an excellent way of teaching your kid as to care for other living creature. These camps teach children how to socialize with others and develop horsemanship skills. Some camps teach kids from taking care of them to feeding etc. In these camps, youngsters have classroom studies and seminars where they learn the basics of horse like feeding, care and riding. These programs last for three weeks. These camps will provide instruction on riding skills each day and offer other activities for a portion of each day.
Many camps focus on English riding styles. Safety is the most important activity. Riders are asked to wear helmets and boots while they are riding the horse. Safety is very important because of their sheer size which can be dangerous in certain situations. The horses that are found in the camps are well trained and they are kept at the farm throughout the year. The campers are taught the cues that are necessary to communicate with the horses. The different breeds of horses are thoroughbreds, Arabians, quarter horses and walking horses. These breeds are mostly used in the camps. Summer horse camps are most often found on horse farms. Horse farms include horse stables, pastures, and show or performance arenas. Most of them have beautiful landscapes with white board fences and other pastoral farm amenities. Campers stay in cabins. The camp has full time trainers who are experienced and keep the animals in shape so that campers get the best learning and riding experiences. The camp staff is generally qualified to provide quality instruction about horsemanship. Most of the camps generally use college students or graduates as counselors. These counselors are preparing them for careers in the equestrian industry. Certified Horsemanship association should certify each of these counselors as instructors. Every reputable camp will often give you a list of references. Talk to people who have previously enrolled in the camp who will give you an opinion about the facilities, the quality of the horses, about counselors and overall satisfaction.
Mari Milian is an Expert author for youth summer camps and coed camps. She has written many articles like Children summer camps [http://www.paliadventures.com/children_summer_camp_articles.php], boys summer camps, overnight summer camps, horseback riding camp and music summer camps. For more information visit: paliadventures.com contact her at caterina.milian@gmail.com

Monday, 7 June 2010

2010 Saratoga Meet Saved Let The Horse Games Begin

For much of this year, it looked as if the great Thoroughbred Meet at Saratoga was not going to take place. NYRA (New York Racing Authority), the group that runs all of New York's Thoroughbred Tracks - at Aqueduct, at Belmont and at the spa every summer at Saratoga - was out of money and on the verge of cancelling the entire meet.

If you're a fan of "the sport of kings," you know how serious that would be because the Saratoga meet is considered one of the best on the American racing calendar. Each year, it attracts the best horses in the country ... the best trainers ... the best owners ... and, of course, America's top jockeys.

Purses are sizable, crowds are huge (weekend crowds are immense) ... the racing is second to none. In fact, when it comes to Thoroughbred Racing, the Summer Meet at Saratoga is the apex ... the very top of the sport. Cancellation of this meet would have dealt a devastating blow to the Thoroughbred Racing in general and New York Racing in particular.

But ... the meet was saved thanks to quick action by the New York State legislature which presented NYRA with a $25,000,000 loan, enough to keep racing alive and viable for the remainder of the year. So, this summer, if you like "the flats," you won't have to play free horse games online because you'll be able to watch and wager on the real thing in upstate New York while you enjoy a weekend vacation, wonderful dining and outstanding racing.

The Saratoga Meet kicks off on July 23rd for the 142nd time and runs to about Labor Day. The loan has enabled NYRA to avoid eliminating about 1450 jobs. This year, too, as in every other year, Saratoga will be home to one of the biggest stakes races of the year ... the Travers. Scheduled to run on August 28th, this 141st edition of the race promises to be a major event.

It wasn't like that the first time the race was run way back in 1864. That year, a horseman named William Travers (yes, the race is named after him), entered a horse named Kentucky, a brave and gallant runner who crossed the line first. There have been 140 more Travers races held since then as it remains one of the signature races on the Thoroughbred Racing calendar.

It's a race that you can set up and "run" when you go on the Internet to test your skill and knowledge at websites that feature online horse racing games and other "racing fun" that allows you to establish a barn, recruit horses, enter races and compete against thousands and thousands of other fans of the sport.

If it sounds like fun, it is ... and in most cases, access is completely free. Go online today, find a website, get involved ... enjoy the nonstop action. And when time permits, visit a real track,too.
About the Author

To know more about free online horse racing games and related information log on to www.horseracegame.com. I am passionate about writing informative articles on adventurous topics such as new developments in various fields, sports and online games. I have been an ardent fan of horse racing for many years. The purpose of my articles is to present useful and interesting information to the readers.

Tuesday, 6 April 2010

Horse Ownership - The True Cost of Owning Your Own Horse - Article 2 of 2

This is Article 2/2.

Horse Dreams - Broken Dreams

The real cost of owning your own horse is not just time and money - you must plan ahead before you buy or you could be without an equine friend. I had my own horses when I was young but due to family issues, my horse had to be sold when I was about 15. For many, many years I yearned to have another equine friend. After sharing a few horses, the craving for my own became too much to bear. Basically, I was going to have my own, no matter what. Five years ago, after looking in the UK, I finally went to Holland with a respected trainer and found a beautiful horse. The only problem was that I didn't do my List and I was not strictly objective (oh, and I had a 4 month old little girl!) Now, my beautiful 17.3 KWPN Dressage horse is on loan with a view to sale, because I really didn't have the time or the lifestyle to meet his needs and to fulfil my dream. I spent most of my time moving from one livery yard to the next and mucking out in pitch black darkness. I couldn't afford my training due to no job and being Mum to little baby girl. My bank balance is still reeling after forking out a small fortune for my horsy habit! So, I am now horseless again and very sad about it too. Writing this has been a little bit cathartic maybe, although, I just want to grab a horsebox and go and pick him up. Just devising my plan for buying the next one, one day. This time, I will do The List before I go horse hunting! Please read on and if you know of anyone about to buy their own, please ask them to read it too!

Look around - Ring around

There is no harm contacting trainers and breeders in the UK who you may not know and asking if they ever go abroad and if they can recommend any yards abroad. But also be careful. It is always better to see any horse with a trusted, able individual who can objectively look at the horse, and you when you try it out. Search the web as there are many horses on line here - even if its simply for research purposes. Best to take a trainer, I think, rather than a vet. A vet will be able to check that the horse is fit but not necessarily whether it is the right horse for the job you want it to do. Do be aware however, that some of the prices you pay abroad will be higher simply because you are from the UK - hence, going with a trusted, well known individual who really knows the true value of horses in today's market really makes sense. They will charge - but it is better to pay them what they are worth and what the horse is worth, rather than paying over-odds for your equine friend.

Horse dealers?

I have mixed opinions about these. Sometimes, the horses they bring over are the ones that cannot be sold abroad and they are not necessarily quality ones as a result. However, you should visit a few and try out some horses. It is a good experience, will test your nerve a bit and help you establish what you really want and don't want. If you do go to a dealers yard (and when visiting any prospective sale) ensure it is ridden by someone else first before you go anywhere near it. Watch it in the stable, the yard - how does it react to other people and horses. If it comes out rearing, unless you are particularly daring, I suggest leaving that one alone and perhaps, if you liked it, let it settle in its surroundings for a week before coming back and seeing if it has settled. I think dealer yards are quite unfair places to see horses really, as they are very unsettled by the process so it is difficult to see them at their best. If you do see one and your instinct is good, even if the horse wasn't, then try it again (and again!). You may be able to loan it for a brief period, or if the yard is within sensible travel distance, perhaps try it out for a week (every day) to see if your instinct is right. Let the dealer know you are interested and they may stave off other prospective purchasers for a week or so. Don't mess the yards around.

Buying abroad

Many good horses come from abroad so if you are up for the challenge, find a good trainer with contacts abroad and spend a few days looking at horses. Don't go on your own to any yard - you should always have at least one more opinion. If you can, try and see any horses you like again before you return home and make a decision. Take videos to review when you return home. Well organised yards/studs will have a selection of suitable horses to view. Some yards may charge over odds for their horses, so ensure you have a knowledgeable person with you. I would suggest a 5 stage vetting with blood checks just to be on the safe side. All paperwork will be carried out before the horse is exported and these will be handed to you when he arrives! At the end of the day, any horse is worth what you are willing to pay for it in the end - but don't pay more than you should, regardless of how lovely he/she is and remember The List!

Sharing or loaning a horse?

Another option is to find a quality horse to loan. I would highly recommend this option if you find the right horse and the right owner. You must have a loan agreement and be honest about what it is you want to do and how long you would expect to keep the horse on loan. Don't mess the owner around by changing your plans unless you simply had no choice. It is a great way to own a quality horse for a while without having to pay the money up front to purchase, and you could spend a few years getting some excellent experience and training before you do later decide to buy your own. I would recommend it if you can find the right horse and owner.

Sharing

You could also find someone with a good quality horse who needs help. There are very often many owners struggling and needing help. Provided you are realistic and honest about your abilities, look for a good quality horse whose owner needs help (for free!) You can gain invaluable experience and also, it's a good way to test out your skills and see if you are really ready for ownership. You must be committed - horses need regular attention, even if you are sick, tired and have other commitments. So, I really suggest sharing - particularly if you have been away from horses for a while and are getting back into it, or haven't owned for a while.

Some sharers are looking for money. Personally, I try to avoid paying and opt for ensuring you are helping with all the horse duties including early morning muck outs, turn outs etc,. If the owner is looking for money instead of help with mucking out etc,. ensure that you are happy with the owner and horse before you hand over any money. Perhaps opt for a 2 week trial before you get involved with handing over any finances. Also, if you are sharing (and loaning) you must respect and pay attention to what the owner asks regarding their horses care, any particular pointers regarding the type of work the horse can/cannot do, etc,. You will quickly be horseless again, possibly out of pocket too, if you blatantly ignore the owners instructions. (I had a sharer who did this and my horse was off for about 4 weeks with blown up tendons because he had been pushed too quickly following time out when I removed his shoes). You will have to learn a large amount of tact and patience when dealing with horse owners (and visa versa) but it is an excellent way to get 'back in the saddle' (excuse the pun!)

Trust your instincts

If you are honest with yourself, when you look at a horse, you will have an instinct about it. You may not like the instinctive decision that comes to you, but I urge you to listen to your senses truly on this occasion! If your mind says 'No', but your heart says 'yes please', listen to your mind, because at the end of the day, owning a horse is not about your heart. It is about your time, your money, your relationships. Heart has to play second fiddle to basic common sense. Particularly, if you don't want your heart broken later when you realise your equine purchase was really the wrong one! Riding down the centre isle on a beautiful 17hh dark bay Dutch Warmblood is romantic, but he may not be the right one, on this occasion! (Trust me, I know about it - I've been there already!) Now, you need to deck you and your horse out with kit and decide where you are going to keep him!

Kitting you and your horse out for the occasion

You must also factor in how much your horse will cost once you get him home. The main cost of a horse is not his purchase, it's keeping him. Firstly, if you buy a horse locally, chances are he will come with some kit. But, it may not be right for you and it may need replacing soon anyway. If you buy a horse abroad, he is most likely to turn up with a rug and an old lead rope and head collar. That's it. Kitting out from scratch is expensive: you will need feed buckets; hay nets; grooming kit; bandages; stable rugs; various turnout rugs (goods ones are about £200+ I think); another rug just in case he damages the others; bridles & saddles (can range from £50 - £3000); numnahs, special training aids and equipment; Insurance (normally about 10% of the value of the horse insured, depending on cover required) and of course, livery and shoeing (or foot care if you opt for removing their shoes). If you are bringing a horse from abroad you will need to pay his travel costs (from about £300+ depending) and he should be insured before he leaves on the lorry (although often, the policy has an initial 2 week settling period during which cover is limited).

Make sure you sit down and write a list of what you will need to buy, how much it costs and make sure you have the money in the bank. Particularly, if you need a new saddle, because there are so many saddles and saddle fitters it can be quite mind boggling and a cheap one will not necessarily be a good answer. You sit on the saddle, and the saddle sits on your horses back - so spend a lot of time trying out saddles and find the right one! There are many options including treeless. Worth looking into all options - you should be able to ask a fitter / reseller to bring a selection for you to try out.

Where will you keep your horse - Livery is expensive and not always reliable
One of the biggest issues I have had has been livery. Again, what you require will vary depending on the type of horse you purchase. Make sure that the people who run the yard understand the type of horse you are buying, what you will be doing with him and your needs regarding help and if you are doing DIY, ensure that they won't mind you being there when you need to access the yard. Some yards can have strict cut off times and if these are too early then getting to your horse could be difficult.

Will stable help, be helpful?

Ensure that any yard helpers will be able to manage your horse effectively. Not everyone is really comfortable with a 17.3hh KWPN warm blood. So, know your horse and ensure that yards are aware of particular habits and methods of behaviour management. If you horse eats rugs make sure that put, in writing, this point (and any others) so that you cannot be held liable for any rugs he eats left by stable help and owners. I was bullied into paying a hefty £100 for a rug even though I had told them to keep rugs away from my horse (he had ripped it to shreds in his stable). Put everything in writing to the yard manager/owner and keep copies.

Managing your horses nutritional needs

It is surprising how many 'knowledgeable' yards are oblivious to the amount of food a big horse needs. Regardless of whether a horse is ridden every day or 4 times a week, horses need to munch hay and lots of it (to my mind, ad hoc) - of course, the bigger the horse, the more he is going to eat, especially if grazing is poor. This is particularly relevant for horses boxed for long periods of time. It is better for their gut and it is much better for their mind to keep them occupied and prevent boredom and frustration. There is nothing worse than seeing your prize purchase thoroughly fed up, miserable and frustrated, and be unable to do anything about it (except move him). It is not as easy to find good, safe and happy accommodation for your horse as you might think. An unhappy horse can result in him, through no fault of his own, being given a bad name when all is required is simple respect for his basic equine needs.

Grass Livery

Personally, I would try my utmost to keep a horse at grass, in a safe, well-fenced, appropriately sized field with some equine friends. Even expensive competition horses! This is the ticket to a happy horse - it is natural and enables them to follow their equine instincts and needs. However, some horses from abroad may freak at the concept of a lengthy turnout in a field at the beginning! In these instances, seek professional advice, as I have not had to manage this myself, although I have seen horses ill at ease in a field. The field was small, and whilst other horses were in other paddocks, none were in its own field - perhaps this was part of the issue? My horse was certainly happiest in his field with friends - he was a terrible pacer if he was on his own - it's not natural for your equine to be void of other equine company and contact. A sniff over a stable wall does not do it for most horses and the constant lack of other equine contact can cause stress. If they are stabled, try to find well thought out stabling which enables horses to see each other with ease. This will fulfill their herding instinct and help to avoid nervous stable pacing and other habits than can develop in a stressed, bored horse.

Found the horse - now what?

Once you have found the right horse, ensure he is thoroughly vetted before buying. Also, when possible visit them a few times for a few extra rides and watch him with his current owners.

Vetting your horse

There are a number of different options ranging from basic check to a 5 Stage Vetting which includes X-rays to check their bone structure and hence, ability to perform. You can also have a blood check to ensure that no illegal substances are being used to hide any sore limbs or injuries. Whichever vetting you choose, ensure it's carried out by a qualified vet; never use the same one as the owner of your prospective purchase. All horses, by law, have to have a Passport and be vaccinated against Tetanus and Equine Flu (in the UK) so ensure these are up to date (the vet will check this). Horses from abroad will be checked by a vet abroad before being allowed to travel and will arrive with Export papers which you must keep, along with their Passport. These you will be handed by whomever you choose to bring your horse over the channel.

Bringing your horse home

Watching your horse come down the ramps of a horse box (or trailer) is one of the most exciting and exhilarating sights, EVER! After all the waiting, planning and disappointments of horses that weren't right or didn't pass the vetting - finally, your equine friend is all yours. Home safely. I am sure you will have quite a lot of apprehension too! Well, now your horse is home, the work really starts!

If you need to bring your horse from abroad, there are a number of quality, professional horse transport companies who regularly bring horses to UK from abroad. They know what they are doing, so use one of these.

Settling In

It will take time for your horse to settle in to his new home. Horses can seem quite different when they arrive at a new yard. Don't panic! Everything is new and they are sensitive animals so they will pick up on any nerves you have as well! The best approach is patience. Do not think that by next week you will be winning first prize, jumping 4"fences or doing the best piaffe of your life.

Start with what you know - build trust first at ground level

You may need to start at a basic point - do work that you know well, that he knows well and which you will both find easy - build trust. It is worth starting with plenty of ground level, in hand or loose schooling work to build trust and respect for each other. Watch your horse on a lunge (with no gadgets) or even better, provided he is calm and it's safe, loose school and jump him. Watch how your horse moves and see what he reacts to.

Help him to respect your voice and associate its sound with good, positive reinforcement. Learn to understand and respect his equine voice and needs. Try join-up if you feel it is safe to do so (search the internet and you will find plenty of good advice for this.) Remember, this does involve your being on the ground with a loose horse (or one on a long line) so you must be careful - if you are not sure about this, I would strongly suggest finding a good natural horsemanship trainer who can give you a few lessons and get you on the right tracks. There is something very magical that happens when your horse accepts you and wanders around after you quite happily without being forced or pushed to do so.

Start riding - do what you both find easy at first

Once you have established respect and understanding on ground level, it's time to get on and start your ridden training. Again, don't start with the hardest moves and biggest jumps. Spend the first few ridden weeks doing what you know is easy for you both. Build trust now and you will reap the rewards later on. If your horse has travelled he may well be stiff from boxing and if he has come from abroad he will have had quite a long journey. Travelling on the boat is bumpy, so it does no harm to have them checked over by an equine physio on arrival. Don't feel pressured to 'show off' your new horse with impressive new moves and high jumps - ignore the 'know-it-all' crowd that will develop each time you are on your new steed.

I really recommend that you have lessons & training as much as possible, particularly when you start riding your new friend. You will save so much time in the long run by getting on the right tracks from the very beginning.

Regular training / lessons

If you only want to plod about then that's fine - but I would still recommend a few lessons for the first few months to keep you on the right tracks, and then at intervals to keep you in the right direction. If you have bought yourself a quality horse with a view to competing and taking it all quite seriously, and you cannot afford a quality trainer at least every 2-3 weeks - forget it! It's harsh, but from my experience, without a good trainer every 1-3 weeks you are really wasting your time. Don't kid yourself about this. Mum teaching you (unless she is a well established, experienced rider in the discipline you are interested in), won't be enough. This will also help stave of the 'I know more about it than you' know-it-alls that a new horse seems to attract!

Everyone 'knows' more about your horse than you!

The riding fraternity can be quite cruel - through either envy or sheer ignorance, you will no doubt come across a vast amount of people who will see you with your new steed and be convinced that they know more about it than you. At the beginning, it may well be the case, whilst you build confidence in your new friend and visa versa. But don't let it undermine you. If you follow basic common sense, build respect for your horse and get a good trainer - you will be the best person to understand your horse/pony (within reason). So don't let other people grind you down and spoil your time and fun with your horse. This is why finding the right yard, with people who understand and respect you and your horse, is so important. Of course, don't take this advice as meaning that you ignore all professional help and close the book to advice - but don't be ground down by others ignorance and envy. It takes time to build a relationship with a new horse and we buy a new horse because we know it will be a challenge - we want the challenge and learning experience it will provide. Assuming you have purchased the right horse for your experience, ability, way of life, and which you can afford to maintain, then it is only a matter of time and patience before all the buttons work (well, most of them - we are speaking about a living, thinking animal at the end of the day!)

Stay open minded to other opinions

At the end of the day, the odd person will say something that is worth noting and learning more about. But don't be put off by a wealth of 'I know more about it' advice. Watch those people with their horses - I am sure you could find plenty to comment about their methods and way of riding. Often, the ones who give the most unconstructive advice are the worst horse-persons, because they think they know it all already.

The wisest person is the one wise enough to know that they don't know it all!
Watch other's ride - if you like the way they ride, ask them for advice. If you like the training methods, ask for advice. If you don't - then, don't listen to them - just smile and say thank you and walk on by! The essence of any advice should be to the benefit of the horse and your relationship with him.

Routine

Ensure your horse has a good routine for turn out, feed times, bring in etc,. It is a good idea, if you can, to find out exactly what his routine had been before he came to you - try to replicate this as much as you can for the first month and slowly change it to suit your needs once he is settled in. There's nothing worse than expecting your breakfast & turnout at 7am when it doesn't come until 9am - especially, if you are in a new home, with new sounds and smells. So, respect his old routine and slowly amend it to suit your needs, if you need to.

What to feed/When to feed

Find out what feed he was on and try to provide the same for the first 6 weeks to ensure he doesn't get an upset stomach - ensure they have plenty of good quality hay to munch. Introduce new feed and supplements (if any) gradually. You should consider the grazing he was on previously. If he was on limited turnout on poor grass, turning him out all day on rich grass is not a good idea - the sugar can go to their head and you could give them tummy troubles! Build things up slowly. If he is going to be turned out 24/7 then manage it appropriately, including the introduction to new friends to avoid any accidents and injuries. (Remember, the first 2 weeks of your insurance policy are often restricted so you may want to play it very safe for the first few weeks!) A healthy horse does not have to be stuffed full with loads of hard feed - quality hay & grass should be the bulk of their diet, with additional hard feed given in moderation and relevant to their age, work levels, breed and build.

DIY Livery vs Part vs Full Livery

The more time you spend with your horse, the better - and for this reason, DIY is excellent. However, unless you have considerable amount of free time and a stash of money somewhere, then the time you spend looking after him will eat in to the time you have to ride him. Full livery is probably my least favourite option - you virtually hand over the responsibility of your horse to a group of 'knowledgeable' staff, pay a small fortune for the honour and then will perhaps, spend a lot of time disagreeing with them about how your horse is looked after.

For me the best option is DIY with help, or Part Livery. Spend as much time doing horsy chores as you can, ensuring that you still have plenty of time and energy to enjoy your horse. I spent more time in the end mucking out, heaving 20 bails of hay every 2 weeks, dragging poo filled wheelbarrows up cracked wooden runners to the muck heap, than I did actually riding my beautiful horse (hence the very important Checklist!)

The only time Full Livery may be a good option is for the first few months while you adjust to your horse - spend all your time grooming, working in hand and then riding, before all the mucking out commences! However, don't underestimate how fit you can get mucking out - and the fitter you are, the better you will be able to ride! I think Full Livery, all the time, is a bit of a cop-out! Real horse people should have a good hands on approach and the time spent around your horse whilst you poo-pick his stable, walk him to and from his field and give him his feed and hay are not to be underestimated. You want the bond with your horse to be between you and him, not him and all the stable help!

How fit are you?

This probably isn't something you have thought about. If you have been riding a lot already and mucking out then it really isn't an issue. But if you have not ridden much and have not been mucking out then the arrival of your horse will be that bit more of a shock! Suggest getting fit as much as possible. Also, consider the work your horse will be requiring and whether you will be able to offer it - perhaps you will need help keeping him exercised a few days a week whilst your aches and pains have time to settle in and disappear!

Explaining Horsey-Love to non- Horsey person - Good Luck!

Given up on this one! I don't think that any amount of explaining can help a non-horsey person understand why you want to go down to a horse (a smelly animal!) at 6am every morning (and evening) and clean up its poo and pee, and spend all your money on it. They just don't get it. Even more amusing, try explaining lunging. " Well, the horse is on a long line and it goes round you in a circle?... UH? What's the point in that then? Even much more amusing than that is - try explaining Dressage to them! What do you do - go around in circles. Anyone can do that! Don't horses jump.. why don't you jump - That's fun - I've seen it on the TV.

For goodness sake, such ignorance! It is unlikely that you will be able to convert most non-horsey people it to the beautiful life of the Horse Lover. We seem to be a distinct type of person!

Further updates to these articles and further articles will be available. Best of luck with your new Horse and I hope you have found these articles interesting and helpful. Let me know... leave a comment!

This article is written and submitted by Vanessa Moctezuma who lives in Shropshire (without a horse at the moment, unfortunately). I run an online jewellery store offering up to 6000 items of high quality jewellery including earrings suitable for the discerning rider and competitor. http://www.jewelleryedition.co.uk/. Visit Jewellery Edition online high quality online jewellery store offering a wide range of collections. Rings, Bracelets, Earings, Bangles, Diamonds - Elements Gold, Elements Silver, Catallina Diamonds (high quality diamond jewellery collection), Fred Bennet and other quality jewellery collections at excellent prices. Jewellery Edition UK online is owned and managed by Edgar and Vanessa Moctezuma.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Vanessa_Moctezuma

Monday, 5 April 2010

Horse Ownership - The Real Cost of Owning Your Own Horse - Article 1

I had my own horses when I was young but due to family issues, my horse had to be sold when I was about 15. For many, many years I yearned to have another equine friend. After sharing a few horses, the craving for my own became too much to bear. Basically, I was going to have my own, no matter what. Five years ago, after looking in the UK, I finally went to Holland with a respected trainer and found a beautiful horse. The only problem was that I didn't do my List and I was not strictly objective (oh, and I had a 4 month old little girl!) Now, my beautiful 17.3 KWPN Dressage horse is on loan with a view to sale, because I really didn't have the time or the lifestyle to meet his needs and to fulfill my dream. I spent most of my time moving from one livery yard to the next and mucking out in pitch black darkness. I couldn't afford my training due to no job and being Mum to little baby girl. My bank balance is still reeling after forking out a small fortune for my horsy habit! So, I am now horseless again and very sad about it too. Writing this has been a little bit cathartic maybe, although, I just want to grab a horsebox and go and pick him up. Just devising my plan for buying the next one, one day. This time, I will do The List before I go horse hunting! Please read on and if you know of anyone about to buy their own, please ask them to read it too!

Horse Dreams - Broken Dreams
The real cost of owning your own horse is not just time and money - you must plan ahead before you buy or you could be without an equine friend.

Do you dream of owning your own horse?
Have you really, I mean really, thought about it - objectively? Forget romantic notions of rosettes, winning dressage competitions, learning new ways to communicate and just spending time with your equine friend. Stand back and look at the 2 key realities of owning your own horse - because once you have him/her in your life, letting go again can be very hard and expensive! Are you truly ready for the commitment, both financial and time, which owning your own horse involves?

Owning a horse will change your life immeasurably
It will offer you an amazing opportunity to bond and enjoy a relationship with a sensitive, affectionate and intelligent animal who, provided you respect the fact that he is a horse and not an equine machine, will become one of the best friends you have every had. But, besides the enjoyment you should have from your new friend, you must be prepared for the commitment that owning your own horse involves. They will become a way of life - a focal point for both your time and finances and not everyone in your life may appreciate this!

Which horse to buy?
Starting from the top then. What sort of horse/pony do you want and what can you afford? What do you want to do? Are you a happy hacker sort, who just wants a quiet friend to hack out, groom and do the odd fun ride and competition? Do you want to take part in Pony Club activities, or are you even ready for the big move to a serious competition horse with show jumping or dressage in mind? This is a very, very important point. Again, ignore romantic notions of what you want to do, and consider very harshly, what you can afford to buy, to keep, to maintain and really, what are you actually honestly capable of dealing with, and (an easy one to overlook) what are you going to actually have the time for. Don't pretend to yourself - you will do yourself and any horse you buy an injustice. A happy hacker will be fine with the odd ride and you will benefit from the occasional lesson. However, a competition horse, like a KWPN DW, will be wasted if you planned to compete but spend all your time mucking out (because you cannot afford help) and juggling your family commitments at the same time (speaking from experience on this point!) Think about it a lot (and then think about it again, and again).

Which breed of horse/pony?
Different breeds of horse have varying personalities and needs which will all add varying requirements on your finances and time. What is your true level of knowledge with regard to stable management, horse management and welfare, horsy first aid, feed & nutrition and your riding skills - are they really up to the job? It is very easy to be seduced by thoughts of high-grade competition wins on your beautiful steed. But, be realistic. There's no point buying something that you cannot cope with - you will spoil the horse and just spoil your dreams! So think very hard. Forget what you want - look hard at yourself and without emotion, write a list of what you really know are your abilities (get some friends to do a list too), what are your goals and realistic timeframes for achieving certain milestones. Then think hard about what horse/pony to buy. What is your lifestyle - what sort of horse/pony will be happy with the life, attention and training you will be able to afford him? Ask a friend to video your riding and look at it objectively.

Age of the horse matters, think long term
The main point about age of your purchase, training needs & your abilities aside, is resale. If you only want to keep a horse for a few years, then you need to ensure you buy an appropriately aged horse for your abilities, so that you have a sellable horse in a few years time. Horses can live a long time. Well past the point when they are able to compete, jump big jumps and perform technically correct dressage moves. You must have a plan for an older horse once his needs are different to yours.

The age of the horse you buy is pertinent when purchasing
Consider how long you will want/be able to keep this horse/pony? What are your abilities? What training can you afford? How much time do you have, realistically, taking into consideration all your other commitments. How often will you be able to exercise him? Trainers? Do you have a box (for competing)? All of these questions should be considered and answered objectively before you go looking and ensure you have budgeted, realistically, for all the training, livery and help that you will need. W ho will help you if you are away / on holiday (consider the extra cost implications). There's no point wanting to compete, if you cannot afford the transport to get there.

Once you have your horse, selling may take time. The market may be reduced; he may be too old; not experienced enough; not fit enough; not competed enough; not advanced enough for his age. For these reasons buying the right horse, for you at this moment in time, not just your abilities but what you are really going to have the time to keep, manage and maintain. Because, like me, you may simply not be able to bear the thought of selling him and not having him in your life, even when you know deep, deep down that you cannot fit him into your life at the moment.

An older vs younger equine friend
An older horse/pony could be harder to sell on if kept for a long time, whilst a younger horse if you were to keep for about 4 years and provided it's been well trained and looked after, would perhaps be a quicker horse to sell on. Really, the point being to just consider the longer term effects of your horse purchase, as like a dog, they are 'not just for Xmas'. They are a long term commitment for your time, finances and once committed, to your heart strings!

A younger horse requires a considerable amount of training expertise and time, whereas an older horse will be easier in some areas because of their experiences and training (provided, of course, they are good ones). A younger horse, if you have the experience, time and a number of good trainers, will be very rewarding if you do it properly. You will not have to spend time undoing others poor and possibly detrimental training methods. However, you don't want to be the one that applies them either. A well schooled, competed (if that's what your looking for) / more mature horse, could enable you to progress slightly quicker than if you had a young horse needing to be trained. But it all depends on so many factors. An older horse may be slightly easier simply because he is more mature and confident. But of course, it all depends on the past experiences and training which will not always be evident initially.

The age of the horse vs your experience & expectations
At the end of the day, the age of the horse you purchase should fall in line with what you are capable of now, what you will be capable of in the near future and allow sufficient time for you to achieve enough so if necessary, you can sell him on, well trained and happy, in a few years time. Or, ensure you have long term arrangements in mind to keep him in a field with a few pals, happy for the rest of his years (there are some special equestrian centres that offer a retirement liveries).

What you expect vs what will happen
Owning a horse will be full of surprises. You cannot plan what will really happen. The experiences that you will have will far outstrip anything you imagined. What do I mean. Well, when I bought my horse I wanted to take dressage very seriously. Firstly, this was totally impractical given that I had just had a baby girl and we run our own companies so time limited and funds need to be invested in other things that hay and horse feed!).

What I actually learnt was a) how to muck out a lot and split myself into eight b) horsey feed/nutrition c) managing a big 17.3 KPWN e) natural horsemanship works f) how quickly you can move a horse to a new yard when you have to g) how not to be bullied by mean livery owners h) the tact of dealing with yard mangers/owners.i) I will never have a horse again until I can keep it at home j) I can move 20 hay bails really quickly now k) everything I have written in this and the other articles to follow.. plus... it's endless. Dressage - no, didn't really have the time to take my dressage any further but I have nevertheless, learnt a lot of very useful information that will be used in a good and positive way when the time is right for me to get another horse! There are a lot harder lessons I could have had to learn, so I thank God really that all the lessons I did learn are positive ones which will make the next experience easier (and yours too, if you take heed of what I am writing here)!

Just because he does it with current owner, doesn't mean he will do it with you
Don't think that by buying a horse that has already competed a lot and jumps or 'does dressage' very well with its current owner, means that the story will be the same for you (or not at the beginning anyway). It takes time to learn to respect each other and you will have to start at the basics and build up your knowledge and trust in each other before you embark on the big steps forward that you are looking for. You may never get there - sometimes it doesn't work out! I can almost guarantee that whatever you are expecting from your new equine purchase, the journey and adventure you will have will be completely different. However, you will learn so much (just look as this article I am writing!) Maybe because you didn't really write your list objectively, or simply because life changes; also, horses have accidents and can be ill - things do go wrong, or not as expected - so, expect the unexpected!

With horses, you really never know what's going to happen!
The main thing when you buy your horse, however much he cost you, is that you buy him/her because you simply Love Horses. If you are not really besotted with horses, simply for Horses Sake, then you are not in the right game! (However, don't let this adoration cloud your purchasing judgement, please!) At the end of the day, to take part in horse ownership and anything horse oriented you must truly love them from the bottom of your heart. Anything else that happens is just a bonus! The true horseperson knows that the real point of horses is their beauty and their company; learning how they speak and speaking back to them in the same way. It's not about control, showing off, having the latest designer gear, the best looking horse (although it's does feel good!), the most success. It's really just about understanding each other and enjoying each other's company.

For the Real Horse Person: Love is..
You must love mucking out; love early mornings; love late nights in the freezing cold; love wet winter feet; love mucking out to the lights of your cars 'cos you don't want to put money in the meter; love schooling in the dark (ditto); love jumping down with frozen feet that tingle with pain when they hit the tarmac; love coming back from a hack with your hair stuck to your face from the pouring rain; love being stuck in a foot of mud when you take them to the field in the morning; love falling in mud as they decide to move, anyway; love the hypnotic munch of hay; love ripped new rugs; love mud all over; love freezing-freezing mornings; love frozen hands and fingers; love Summer showers that tingle on your nose; love the way they chuck all their carefully measured out feed on the floor; love it when you just manage to hang on; love it when you don't; love it when you win, love it when you lose; love it when it all works (finally!); love it when your horse says 'thank you'; love it when he understands; love hot breath from warm muzzle; love that special Horsy cuddle! (The list here is endless by the way).

It's funny, whilst I love the riding aspect of equine engagement, the really great memories are the little ones like icicle noses on a winter morning; frosted winter muzzles that gently poke you for a polo; the happy sound of your equine friend as he whinnies when your car pulls up - we like to think he is happy to see us, but really he just wants his breakfast!

Have excellent, regular training
A good trainer is vital. Just having someone who tells you how to grab the rains, hang on and get the horse over the jump; or someone who forces the horse in an outline until his muscles are so pronounced he appears to be holding himself when actually, there's no power going through his top-line and he is almost deformed by all the gadgets - No, this is not the answer. The key to success on your horse/pony is your ability to ride them in an effective, efficient and considerate manner, being part of their movement.

The key to a good trainer - Train the rider, not the horse
The horse has not chosen to do jumps or dressage. He would quite happily eat grass all day with his pals. He only knows how to be a Horse. You, on the other hand, have chosen to invite this horse into your life and you, being superior in intelligence (presumably!), have the ability to learn his way of doing things. You need to meet him at his level. The term, as you may well be aware, of natural horsemanship, applies here. If you don't get to know your horse on his level, at ground level - inviting him to understand and respect you, because you have made the effort to understand and respect him as a horse and not a machine, will pave the way to a much easier ridden relationship. Horses, by their very nature, want to please, provided you give them the mechanism to trust you because you now, understand them. There are many good, well known methods and trainers and you should go out of your way to find a trainer who does not put the blame on the horse when it all goes wrong - and absolutely, won't let you! It is almost never the fault of the horse.

Give a child a piggy-back
This is one of those 'light bulb' moments! Sounds funny, but this is very important for the future development of both you and your horses relationship together. If you have a little cousin, sister, brother, niece, you may well have given them a piggy back (either whilst you stand, or if they are very convincing, been on all fours racing around the living room).

Next time you see them, offer to do this once again (watch the big smile on their face). If you don't have one to hand, try this with something quite heavy (like a loose back pack filled with some apples/potatoes... basically, things that will move around). Try the following list of exercises whilst standing up and on all fours (with your chosen rider)!

1. Walk in a straight line, turn around, and walk back again - without dotting all over the place;
2. Move around in a circle in a balanced, consistent movement;
3. Try a little jog whilst keeping your balance;
4. Try jumping over a small obstacle, keeping your balance and without knocking anything down;
5. Try to lift your back upwards, tucking tummy in
6. Try again... and again... and again!

Do you see my point! What we expect and ask from our equine friends whilst we wobble and bump around on their backs!

Learning balance and centered riding
Whether you want to jump, 'do dressage', or just ride out on long hacks and have fun - the true art to good ridden horsemanship and mastery is balanced, centered riding. That means - YOUR balance and YOUR centered riding - not the horses! He is most likely to already be well balanced until you sit on his back! Good centered and balanced riding is not gained by your forcing your horse into an outline with gadgets and tight reins. He must have good top line to hold you comfortably but without good riding he will not be able to do develop his top line correctly.

Finding your balance and developing centered riding
Don't be afraid - your balance is not something mysteriously hiding inside of you! It is there - you just need to establish it. There is, however, one point I need to stress here and that is body shape! This is a harsh point that you may not appreciate but it is very relevant and true. I have had to face this exact point head on. If you are over weight, unfit and not particularly well proportioned, being a really good rider will be hard. (Look at the good riders - they do tend to be well proportioned and fit). If bits of your body are waving around in ways you cannot control or you cannot sit straight and long because other parts of your body are rebelling against the saddle and sides of the horse, you really will find it hard to find your balance and develop centered riding! But do not fear - there is any easy solution. Mucking Out - yep, I got so fit doing this so off you go and get rid of some puppy fat and develop your stamina! I don't mean you need to be a waiflike, streamlined athlete. But muscle tone and strength is important for riding. Riding is an energetic sport - although most non-horsey types think you just sit there like a sack of spuds and won't understand why you are so tired after your 3 hours down the yard of 'having cups of coffee' and 'chatting to all your mates'!

How do you find your balance and develop centered riding?
Patience, time, lots & lots of riding, steer with gentle shifting of your weight and arm movements and take off the stirrups (make sure you are in a safe place for this). Some of you will find it quite easy (the more natural horse people); others will slowly develop it; many of you may give up finding it. But, if you can persevere it is really worth it. A good trainer will help you to establish and develop this. I won't go into how I found mine at this moment. It will be what distinguishes you as a good rider amongst the many poor ones.

Suffice to say, whether you are just hacking out, show jumping or eventing, establishing good balance and centred riding is vital - I cannot emphasise it enough. It is not just for those patient and elegant horse people that 'do dressage'!

Why is it so important? Well, if you are hacking down the road and your horse spooks, the well balanced, centered rider is most likely to still be on afterwards. The unbalanced rider will be on the floor - maybe with the reins in their hands, but most likely their steed will be legging it down the road in a panic. See my point? If you are jumping 4" fences, the well balanced, centered rider (watch Mark Todd riding) will excel against other clumsy riders. Yes, horses can jump, but it is not enough just to get them over the jump - it's the strides and the turns in between and how horse & rider cope with these movements together that will pick out the poorer riders from those that have mastered the true essence of horsemanship. Needless to say, if you want to 'do dressage' you won't get anywhere without a good balanced seat and confident, centered riding! I am surprised to see some dressage riders, after a ridiculous amount of lessons, still bouncing around on the back of their horse in sitting trot, whilst their trainer tells them to reel the horses head down in an attempt to create some kind of control! The right trainer is paramount - you will be restricted to low grade dressage if you don't crack your balance from the onset. Make it your main priority and other movements and riding will be so much easier for you, because you are making it so much easier for your horse.

Other people do it differently
The few, true horse people out there realise that your horse is an animal. Not a machine. Not an equine-XBox. He is a living creature. So, sticking living creature in loads of gadgets, slamming your legs round him, gagging him in hard bits, tightening fixed hands on tight reins. It Won't Work no matter how much you paid for the lessons!

He's not an Equine-Xbox
Your horse will try his hardest for you... but if you don't push the right buttons for both his mind and his body, it won't work in the end for either of you - he is not an Equine-Xbox. If you should be lucky enough to realise this, you will be in the minority. Finding and crafting the art of true horsemanship, both ridden and on the ground - requires time, effort, considerable patience and understanding at the beginning. You will reap the rewards further down the line when everyone else's horses have said "Forget it, no more".

In the meantime, whilst you are being more patient and taking the time to establish ground work and master basic riding technique, you may meet with criticism and cynicism from other less patient and educated horse people. Many will see your 'Equine-Xbox' as an object to be dominated and forced into doing it now. You will just have to ignore them, somehow. Don't be pushed to push yourself and your horse into cracking on with harder moves when all you really need to do is establish the basics. Without good basics (balanced; centred riding; a supple horse and rider; in hand respect & good groundwork), the rest will be hard to attain.

Gizmos and gadgets
I don't propose to know much about all the gadgets out there. Many are well thought of when used in an appropriate manner by a trained and knowledgeable person. The problem is that many are abused, as are the horses being forced to wear them. Get good, sensible advice. Imagine you have to wear it and do whatever it is you are expecting your horse to do in it, first. The tricky bit is really knowing who knows what. This is why a natural, less-is-more mind set can be the best approach. Speak/read/watch training methods in use before you use them. I had a 'knowledgeable' person look after my horse for 5 weeks whilst I was on holiday. I had asked them to lunge him and develop his muscle and top line whilst I was away. It turned out she had been putting a pesoa on him almost every day- quite tight. He was not happy - when I got back and attempted to lunge him with his saddle on, he went ballistic. So, care needs to be taken when using training methods and when asking for help - people don't often know as much as they think they know! And be clear about what is and is not acceptable to you, the owner. Remember, it is your horse, your money - and if you listen to your horses voice, you should be making the best decisions for your horse.

Buying your horse - where should you look?
A big and extremely important decision. Be very careful. There are a lot of time wasters advertising horses which do not fit the true reality of the horse. Depending on what you are looking for, there are a number of different options and avenues. If you are just looking for a happy hacker, speak to local riding establishments, friends, trainers, go to tack shops and get the word around. Word of mouth is good -you could find a lovely friend who you could even try out first, either by helping the owner out for a few weeks or perhaps having the horse on loan for a few weeks or months with a view to purchase.

If you are keen to compete and take it all quite seriously, I suggest a couple of lessons with a high quality trainer and their horses. Explain your intentions and aspirations and ask them to give you a very honest opinion of your ability now and what they believe your future abilities could be. You may need to travel to someone new for this and it will cost a bit, but it will be worth it. Listen to what they say, even if you don't really like the reality of it. Try out some friends' horses, if you can. Before venturing out in to the big wide world of 'horses for sale', ensure you have your list: What I can do; What I want to do; What I can afford to buy; What I can afford to keep & maintain; How long I will have the horse; What style of Livery will I be offering. Then start. It may take a very long time to find the right horse. Options are local papers, again word of mouth, ring up trainers and training yards (ie dressage / show jumping yards); contact equestrian centres and studs locally and further a-field. Also, you can look abroad - but ask around.

Look around - Ring around
There is no harm contacting trainers and breeders in the UK who you may not know and asking if they ever go abroad and if they can recommend any yards abroad. But also be careful. It is always better to see any horse with a trusted, able individual who can objectively look at the horse, and you when you try it out. Search the web as there are many horses on line here - even if its simply for research purposes. Best to take a trainer, I think, rather than a vet. A vet will be able to check that the horse is fit but not necessarily whether it is the right horse for the job you want it to do. Do be aware however, that some of the prices you pay abroad will be higher simply because you are from the UK - hence, going with a trusted, well known individual who really knows the true value of horses in today's market really makes sense. They will charge - but it is better to pay them what they are worth and what the horse is worth, rather than paying over-odds for your equine friend.

More to come in next article:
Horse dealers; buying a horse abroad; Share vs Loan; Managing your horse once he is home and lots more...

This article is written and submitted by Vanessa Moctezuma who lives in Shropshire (without a horse at the moment, unfortunately). I run an online jewellery store offering up to 6000 items of high quality jewellery including earrings suitable for the discerning rider and competitor. http://www.jewelleryedition.co.uk/. Visit Jewellery Edition online high quality online jewellery store offering a wide range of collections. Rings, Bracelets, Earings, Bangles, Diamonds - Elements Gold, Elements Silver, Catallina Diamonds (high quality diamond jewellery collection), Fred Bennet and other quality jewellery collections at excellent prices. Jewellery Edition UK online is owned and managed by Edgar and Vanessa Moctezuma.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Vanessa_Moctezuma

Saturday, 13 March 2010

Tuesday, 2 February 2010

Famous Race Horses - Best Mate Part One

This article will look at the illustrious yet short career of Best Mate, thought of by many horse racing experts including myself, as possibly the best horse to ever jump over fences.

As there is just so much to include in this article, I have split it into two parts for ease of reading.

Best Mate - A Very Special Horse Indeed

I don't know if you've noticed, but words like 'special', 'great', 'class' and 'legend' tend to be overused in sporting circles these days.

With Best Mate however, they all apply... in abundance.

Before I talk about his career, his achievements and the factors that made him great as a racehorse, I'd like to just give my own personal views first, as this truly was a special horse to me.

Best Mate - 1995 to 2005

And it is with a lump in my throat that I use the word 'was', because unfortunately for his owners, his trainers and stable hands, the jockeys that rode him, the racing public and me, Best Mate is no longer with us.

Best Mate was born on 28 January 1995 to his Sire (father) - Un Desperado and his Dam (mother) - Katday. This in itself makes him special to me as he shares his birthday with my son, who was also born on 28 January.

He was a beautiful, majestic bay gelding who really had a lot of character about him, and whenever I saw him at the racecourse he always seemed to be enjoying himself.

He also brought me a lot of luck at the course, winning for me on more than one occasion. Best Mate seemed to have a certain style, and certain elegance about how he did things too, and he stood out amongst his fellow horses.

Best Mate's Career

His record is one to admire and shows just how classy a horse the Jim Lewis owned gelding was. The first statistic that stands out is his three consecutive victories in the challenging and gruelling Cheltenham Gold Cup.

To win this great once is no mean feat, but to win it three times, and consecutively (2002, 2003 and 2004) is quite remarkable and has only ever been done once before, by the great horse Arkle.

In all of his races, Best Mate was never out of the first two places. This is an amazing statistic and outlines the standard that the he set. Trainer Henrietta Knight is understandably very proud of his career and she should be.

In all, he won 14 out of his 22 starts and came second in seven. His impressive 14 victories are listed below:

• Martell Mersey Novice Hurdle, April 2000
• Independent Novice Chase, November 2000
• Scilly Isles Novice Chase, February 2001
• Peterborough Chase, November 2001
• Cheltenham Gold Cup, March 2002
• Peterborough Chase, November 2002
• King George VI Gold Cup, December 2002
• Cheltenham Gold Cup, March 2003
• Ericsson Chase, December 2003
• Cheltenham Gold Cup, March 2004
• William Hill Chase, November 2004

You will no doubt have noticed, that I mentioned that he'd never finished outside of the top two in any race, yet 14 victories and seven second place finishes equals 21 and not 22 right?

Well, the reason for this will be explained in Part Two of this article as will the remainder of the story about every horse racing fan's mate, Best Mate.


About The Author
Cliff Thurston is the owner of Grosvenor Racing Club, which provides horse racing tips to its members. You can also read his renowned horse racing blog for up to date views and news. Cliff has also interviewed several high profile racing experts and these can be accessed via his sites.Please visit http://www.grosvenor-racing-club.co.uk

Monday, 25 January 2010

The History of Steeplechase Horse Racing

The sport of Steeplechase racing dates back to 1752 in Ireland when two, half-crocked, friends settled the argument over who owned the best horse by racing to the nearest Church steeple after returning from Fox hunting. The winner actually rode right through the church where the vicar was holding a solemn funeral. Soon it spread to England, where in 1792, the first recorded race was held. This sport then crossed over from the Atlantic to the US, where it has became very popular.

In the early 19th century nine prominent men from New York - August Belmont, H. DeCourcy Forbes, Samuel S.Howland, James O. Green, Frederick Gebhard, A.J. Cassatt, Foxhall P. Keene, John G. Follansbee and Frederick H. Prince founded the National Association for Steeplechase. When it was first founded, its mission was to make the sport popular in the US and help it grow across the Atlantic. For membership details and other small tidbits about the Association, you can visit their website at http://www.nsfdn.org/membership.html.

Steeplechase races are held at 12 states across the country and the cumulative purses for these events are $5 million annually. The horse races are a place to see and be seen at. It's seen across the country by millions of fans and admirers and is a major sponsored event where corporate sponsors vie with each other for sponsorship of the events. It attracts the best talent for horses, horse owners, and riders and also raises millions of dollars in charities. Thus it also attracts the most powerful and the influential men and women. If you have seen Pretty Woman, you pretty much have got the idea.

Some of the oldest and the most prestigious steeplechase horse racing events are Montpelier Hunt Races, which was started on the estates of Former President James Madison since 1929. For more information you can visit their site http://www.montpelier.org/races.htm. Others are The American Grand National that began in 1899 and the The National Hunt Cup in Radnor, Pa., which was started in 1909. For more information on steeplechase racing across the country, you can visit http://www.steeplestakes.com/links.html, which lists all the races, their schedules and the prize monies.

In Virginia, you can visit the Virginia Steeplechase association at http://www.vasteeplechase.com/. The big races in Virginia are Virginia Gold Cup, FoxField races at Charlottesville, Virginia, Fairfax Hunt races at Great Falls, Middleburg Spring races at Middleburg, Montpelier Hunt Races at Montpelier Station, Morven park Steeplechase races at Leesburg, Mountaineer chest track in Chester etc.

You can also visit these websites for further information on racing in Virginia.http://www.ctownraces.com/ http://www.colonialdowns.com/ http://www.fairfaxhuntraces.org/ http://www.montpelier.org/ http://www.foxfieldraces.com/ http://www.vagoldcup.com/ http://www.middleburgspringraces.com/

Friday, 22 January 2010

Understanding The Horse Racing Results

When your horse racing software properly outlines every horce racing result, it is a sign that its a reliable one. Here are some common figures and stats that you often see in horse racing software:

Course Date Time Horse Odds Pos Profit Bank
Catt 01-01-2008 14:30 Rapscallion 1.76 2 29.69 1030.20
Ling 03-01-2008 13:35 Dushstorm 1.01 1 -0.30 1041.25
Ling 04-01-2008 14:20 Aigle Dor 2.00 1 -78.69 935.45

Course

The is the first thing that you would see in a horse racing result list. In this column, you will find abbreviations of these horse racing venues such as Catt (Catterick), Extr (Exeter) and Ling (Lingfield). Knowing where the races are is very important information because each track has its distinct qualities which could really determine the outcome of each race.

Date

The dates of the horse races.

Horse

This is a very important column in the horse racing result because you will find the names of the horses that will likely win in that particular race. In the example above, the software predicts that Rapscalloin will likely finish second in the race at Cattrick on January 1, 2008. Meanwhile, Dushstorm will likely finish first in the race at Lingfield on March 1, 2008.

Odds

In a horse racing result, these numbers are particularly interesting because you would know a horse's chances of winning in the race. The higher the odds, the higher the probability that your horse will win. Aigle Dor's odds (2.00), for example, of finishing first are very good. However, there are many factors to consider. Sometimes, betting in a horse with the highest odds of winning may not be too profitable. Because of the poor competition in a particular race, odds may be overestimated. As a result, the software will put all its investments on that particular horse. There are scenarios where the winnings are divided and you would be earning less than you are supposed to. Its a double-edged sword. But most of the time, the races are competitive and the odds are stacked evenly among the horses.

Profit

This is the part of the horse racing result that you should take note of. The profit column shows you your winnings for a particular race. In the example, Rapscallion is predicted to finish second in the race at Cattrick on January 1, 2008. Now, it can happen that the horse may not finish first, but still you can earn some money. The example shows that if Rapscallion would indeed finish second, œ29.69 will be added to your betting bank as profit.

Bank
The last column in the horse racing result simply shows how much money you have in your betting bank.

You can never go wrong when your betting system gives you all the information that you need. You can always be sure that your investment is in the right hands when your software gives you a horse racing result that is easy to understand. After all it is your money that you are concerned about, not the horses.

By: Delrick Mckay

Article Directory: http://www.articledashboard.com

Want more articles about horse racing results, horse racing systems, and horse racing software, go to Horse-Racing-Software now!

Wednesday, 20 January 2010

Four Ways to Teach Your Horse Respect

Respect. These seven letters are absolutely essential to a happy, healthy and enjoyable relationship with your horse. Whether your vision with your horse is of precise dressage circles, long ambling trail rides or eventing, if you don't have respect on the ground you won't have it in the saddle. Gaining your horse's respect is a simple and essential part of horse ownership that helps you build a strong relationship with him, and it starts with understanding why your horse is the way he is.

Understanding Your Horse's Needs

Horses belong in a herd; evolutionarily speaking, horses are prey animals that benefit from numbers. In a running herd, predators have trouble focusing on and bringing down a single animal in a group of 20. An essential part of this herd is its hierarchy. If you spend a day watching your horse in the pasture with other horses you will see constant movement; at first this movement may seem random and aimless, but if you look closely you will see that all movement begins with one horse that sets off a chain reaction among the others. Horses will move and shift constantly, from patch of grass to piles of hay to watering trough, moved around by the boss of the pasture; while your horse may favor one section of grass or area of the pasture, the boss can move him off at will, pinning her ears and lowering her head, perhaps with a snaky, swaying movement or teeth bared, moving towards what she wants with very pointed energy. If your horse does not move when presented with these obvious physical signs, the boss will proceed with more physical interventions, biting or kicking to get the reaction she is looking for. If there are horses lower in the hierarchy than the horse that was moved off, that horse will proceed to move another horse, and then another, and so on until they have all moved to a different patch of grass or pile of hay.

The hierarchy of the dominant horse is fairly stable but can change; even something as simple as putting on a fly mask or a turnout blanket can shake up the herd and result in squeals, kicks and challenges until things settle down again with a (sometimes) new boss. As uncomfortable as it may look from the outside, horses feel safer when they understand who is in charge and where they fall in the ranks of the herd. A lead horse not only says who eats what, when and where but also keeps an eye out for predators and keeps track of new foals; this horse also controls the speed and direction of movement in the event that the herd needs to run from a predator.

A Herd of Two

A horse's need to feel safe as part of a herd's hierarchy does not diminish when it is just you and your horse, and there is only one safe way for you two to form your own herd: you must be the boss. If you do not assert yourself, gaining (and keeping) your horse's respect, you will become the owner of a horse who is (or becomes over time) pushy during feeding time, pushy when being led, pushy under saddle and pushy in general. Eventually you will have a dangerous horse that cannot be trusted on the ground and certainly should not be trusted under saddle. Your horse needs direction and guidance, and if he does not get it from you he will assume he is the one in charge and act accordingly.
Where to Start

When we think of getting our first horse, most of us have images of saddling up and riding, galloping across an open field on a sunny day, or completing a lightening-fast barrel run or dressage pattern or meandering along sun-dappled trails through the woods. Reality is something quite different. If your goal is to build a relationship with your horse that will last their lifetime, the first step is building respect, and respect begins on the ground. For the purposes of this article, we will assume that your horse's most basic needs are being met so that he is receptive to this type of basic training. Your horse should be on a sound and regular feeding schedule designed to keep him at optimum health, and even if you have adopted or purchased a horse that is weak from hunger or illness, you can still address some basic respect issues without harming your horse. If you are unsure, check first with your vet to get the go-ahead, and then proceed slowly, being mindful of your horse's comfort and building from there.

For all exercises that follow, remember to repeat them from both sides of your horse's head, and make sure to practice them regularly and consistently; stay calm and firm when you ask you horse to do something, and reward even his smallest try. A horse that lowers his head and begins to lick his mouth or make chewing motions is a horse who is thinking about what you are asking him to do, and this is what you want: a thoughtful horse. If this is your first time doing groundwork, remember that you are training yourself, too; as you work with your horse, your body language and cues will become clearer and easier to understand, and your horse will relax and follow your lead.

Basic Exercises

The purpose of these first exercises is to show the horse that you control their feet (direction). Going back to the example of the boss horse moving the herd away from their food, remember that the boss was able to get the other horses moving with eye contact and body language. So that's where we'll start. You are looking to get maximum response from minimum pressure, so start small and increase your motions until you get a result, then back off instantly.

Many professional trainers recommend using a rope halter with two knots over the nose, and a ten-foot lead rope. The reason for the rope halters as opposed to a basic web halter is that a stubborn horse can lean against a web halter, effectively resisting your cues and making it nearly impossible for you to feel their slightest try. In a shoving match, your horse will win, and that is not the goal in the first place. You are looking to get maximum response from minimum pressure (a "light" horse), and a rope halter helps you to give smaller cues first and feel the response more quickly than a nylon halter. Do not wait to start until you have a rope halter; groundwork for respect should begin the second the first hoof hits the property! You can always get a different halter later.

There are four basic exercises for respect: backing, releasing the hindquarters, releasing the forequarters and leading.

Backing

Backing is simply getting your horse to move backwards out of your space on command. Not only does backing reinforce the very basic requirements of respect (for the horse to move away when you ask him), but it also makes him safer to approach in the pasture and during feeding time when you ask him to move away from gates or his feeder. There are two basic ways to back your horse: standing at his side beside his ears, or cuing him from in front of his head, facing him.

For the first method, start on either side of your horse, holding a couple inches below the clip on the halter in one hand, and the rest of the lead rope in your other hand (remember not to hold the rope in loops, with your hand in the middle). Putting slight pressure on the halter, step toward the horse's shoulder. You are looking for one step backwards from any foot. If you need to, jiggle the halter slightly with the hand holding the clip and/or add additional pressure back towards the shoulder. Do not hesitate; be firm and sure. Do not release the pressure until your horse steps backwards, then release it instantly. The release of pressure is their reward for doing the right thing. As you progress, your horse should be taking more steps backwards, with more energy and less pressure. This requires patience and persistence. Eventually you want to be able to step towards their shoulder and have them back until you stop. Whichever side you start on, remember to move to the other side of your horse's head and repeat.

The second method is adapted from several different natural horsemanship trainers; each trainer puts their own particular spin on this method. A rope halter does work best with this method, but again it is not required.

Stand in front of your horse's head, just slightly off to one side (you do not want to be in their blind spot directly in front of them, but you also don't want them to move to one side), about four feet away. The first step to this may leave you feeling a little silly; make eye contact with your horse, and think to yourself as hard as you can "Back up." Try to convey just through eye contact the same thing the herd boss would, to get out of your way or else. If your horse does not respond to this (and many will not the first time out), start to gently wiggle the lead rope with one hand while making "sh-sh-sh" noises. Your horse's head may come up slightly, and his ears may prick forward; his listening. Again, here you are looking for one step backwards. Gradually increase the motion of your wrist and the lead rope so that the halter may end up rubbing all over his nose. This is very unpleasant for your horse, and he will want to move away (back!) from it. Do not move towards him; wait for him to move away from you. The second he steps back, stop all wiggling and noise and praise him. You may have to wiggle the rope with pretty big movements at first, but he will figure it out quickly to escape the rubbing halter. As you progress through this exercise, his head should come down when you ask him to back, with very little pressure required. With this method you may be able to get your horse so light and responsive that he backs when he hears the noise!

Work on backing (either method, or both to mix it up) as long as it takes him to take as many energetic steps backwards as you need; go as slow as your horse needs (be patient) but remember that you are establishing your role as the dominant "horse" in your herd of two. If your horse knows what you are asking but lazily moves back on his own time, or only gives one or two steps, increase the pressure until he does what you are telling him to do. The idea is to first ask, then show, then tell him what to do.

Troubleshooting

If you start with a horse that really has no respect for you or your space you will need to march him out of your way at first. With the lead rope in one hand and a dressage crop (or similar crop or training stick without a whip attached) begin marching in place, swinging the crop out in front of your knees and really exaggerating a high-stepping march in place, with hands pumping up and down as well; establish a rhythm in place (while your horse looks at you like you are crazy), then begin marching toward him. Continue your rhythm. If your horse does move, he will get the dressage crop on his chest and a hand on his chin. Your goal is not to hurt your horse, but he needs to know you are serious, so if he is not moving by the time the crop reaches him, make sure he feels it. This is the same as the herd boss baring his teeth and biting out. You are not being mean or beating your horse; if you cannot get him to move out of your way he poses a real threat to your safety. He must understand that you are not to be run over or stepped on, and this teaches him that lesson.

Next Steps

After your horse takes multiple, energetic steps backwards with minimal pressure from you, try backing over trot poles, or try varying the direction by moving your focus further back on his body to his hip (so he'll swing to one side or the other). Once he has learned to back and respect your space, keep his refresher training sessions short and effective so that he stays engaged and willing. It is best to apply these skills to real situations, so after you catch him in the pasture back him for a few steps when you open the gate, or back him into his stall at night.

Releasing (Disengaging) the Hindquarters

The second stage of gaining respect by controlling your horse's direction is getting him to release his hindquarters on command. A horse that is soft and supple in the hindquarters is a horse with beautiful lead flying lead changes, instantaneous sidepass, seamless direction changes and a spook that happens in place, instead of down the road. Some trainers will have you work on lateral flexion (bending their heads softly to one side or the other) prior to moving the hindquarters, but this method can get you moving their feet before they are completely flexed in the neck. As you work on perfecting this you can add lateral flexion, but as our goal is respect and establishing you as the dominant horse, we'll start with movement of the feet and add flexion in next steps.

Start on the near (left) side of the horse, facing his head and standing behind where the girth would be; hold the lead rope in your left hand and place your right arm on your horse's back, without crossing over to the other side. Apply pressure to the lead rope by pulling back slightly, just until your horse turns his head; once the horse turns slightly, release the pressure and let him straighten up. Repeat at least three times on each side. The goal in this case is to get your horse flexing to the side, not to touch their side completely; you just want to see their eye facing you. After the third time, hold the horse's head slightly flexed, drop your right hand down to the side where a rider's heel might ask for movement, and bump his side slightly with the heel of your hand, keeping gentle pressure on the lead rope. Here you are looking for your horse to release his hindquarters, crossing his left hind leg in front of his right hind leg. At the beginning, look for just one step across, and not a shuffle; you need to see one leg cross in front of the other one, not just shuffle around. When you get it, instantly stop bumping and release all pressure, praising verbally and rubbing the spot you were bumping with your hand. Repeat this exercise as many times as necessary to get that one step with light pressure. Eventually you will have a horse who releases quickly, pivoting on the front legs. Remember to practice this on both sides of the horse, and alternate releasing the hindquarters with backing.

Troubleshooting

If your horse moves forward as he releases, he is really just walking a circle around you, and you are looking for a swinging hind end. Release some of the pressure on the halter, as he may think you are trying to walk him, and raise your hand in front of his eye to stop him from walking toward you. Make sure he can feel you bumping his side; you're not playing patty cake. You should definitely reward the try, but make sure your horse understands you mean it when you tell him to do something. You can also step towards his hindquarters with a big movement, and he should move out of your way.

Next Steps

When your horse releases his hindquarters with minimum pressure, pivoting or moving very little with his front legs, add a backing exercise to the end. Give him a little more lead rope, and when he swings to face you, begin to back him up using whichever method works best for you.

Additionally, for a good stretch, you can begin to ask your horse to flex his neck in either direction to touch his side. Stand beside your horse either facing his body or his head, close to the point of his hip, drape the end of your lead rope over your horse's back. If you start on the near side, slide your left hand down the lead rope towards the clip, and when you get about a foot and a half away, pull back and slightly up towards the withers (this is where you would pull towards in the saddle). When the horse stretches back towards his side by any amount, release instantly and let him relax for five to ten seconds before flexing again. Sometimes you can tickle their whiskers if (they have any), and they will reach further; other trainers suggest you take their head in one hand and their tail in the other and get them to stretch to touch their tail. For any of the flexing exercises, a rope halter is almost imperative; a stubborn horse will lie back on the webbing and wait patiently for you to stop asking. If that happens, bump the lead rope slightly and get ready to release if they try even a little. You always want to end on a positive note, right as the horse is working with you and attentive.

Releasing (Disengaging) the Forequarters

Now that you have your horse backing smoothly and releasing the hindquarters lightly, it's time to work on the front end. If the hind is the engine, the front is the steering wheel. Gaining control over your horse's forequarters will give you more confidence when you mount up; he will know you mean business when you are directing him because you laid the foundation of control on the ground.

Stand on either side, approximately parallel to your horse's ear, maybe a little back. You do not want to be too far back, as your horse will feel like you are driving him forward, and you don't want to be too far in front of him, as he will think you are asking him to back up. With the lead rope in one hand, making sure he has enough room so you aren't pulling on his face, but not so much room that he can just move away and avoid the action, raise your hands to eye level, and begin to rhythmically wave both hands toward him. His head will probably come up to avoid your hands; try to keep them at his eye level. If you horse is especially tall, you may want to add a crop or other training stick to lengthen your arm. Again, you are looking for one step, this time one front leg crossing over the other. Increase the pressure every five or so waves by making them move bigger, or thumping on his neck. Your goal here is not to hurt your horse but to imitate the boss in the pasture; when you say move, he needs to MOVE and NOW. For some horses, this may mean a thump or two on the neck, but do check yourself and make sure you are increasing the pressure because it is time, not because you are frustrated.

Troubleshooting

If your horse backs up when you are asking for the release, that is okay; he is trying to figure out what you are asking him to do. Do not increase the level of pressure; stay with him, and keep asking. When he stops backing but still does not respond then you can increase your pressure.

If your horse moves forward to run away from pressure, immediately back him 10-20 steps and start over again. Make sure you are not standing too far back (so your body language is moving him forward), but do not otherwise let him move forward. He is entering your space unbidden, and that is not safe.

Next Steps

Once your horse smoothly releases from both the front and the back, alternate between them; release the hind, then release the front. See if you can get him to release by just looking at the point of his hip or his shoulder. Back in between releases, and make sure to praise and give time to rest.
Leading

The final exercise for gaining your horse's respect on the ground is teaching him how to lead safely. The reasons for the exercise need little explanation; you cannot have a horse that runs up over you, cuts you off, or steps on your feet when you cross in front of him. In the wild, the dominant horse is truly the one in the lead, and all others follow.

If you watch ten different people with their horses, you will see ten different styles of leading. Some people lead with their horse's head in front of them; some lead walking next to their horse's poll; some lead with the rope looped around their horse's neck; some lead with the horse far behind them. For the purpose of gaining respect, you will learn to lead with your horse behind your right shoulder; if your horse is behind you you will be able to cross in front of him without pushing him out of the way, and he will have space to come to a stop without running over you.

To start, back your horse out of your space and make sure his attention is on you. Hold the lead rope loosely across your right palm with about three feet of lead between you and your horse (hold the remainder in your left hand, loosely coiled). The reason you keep your palm open and some rope between you and your horse is to show him that you trust his ability to follow you, and to not keep him so tightly trussed to you that he cannot move. Remember that as a flight animal, a horse's instinct will make him pull away if he feels trapped, and holding him right under his chin or too close to his halter could produce that feeling. Turn your back to your horse, with your shoulders squared. Look in the direction you are going, and in one smooth movement, step forward with the right foot, click with your tongue, and move your right hand forward slightly. To stop, plant both feet and either say, "woah" or blow out through your mouth, hard. You can add a slight squat to this if you like (similar to the motion of trying to stop your horse in the saddle by sitting lower). Walk in circles, making sure to keep your head up and eyes facing where you want to go (your horse is reading your body language from behind), with your horse behind your right shoulder.

Troubleshooting

If your horse is not used to following, or is high strung, or does not quite get the idea of staying out of your space, he will run up on your shoulder or try to surge ahead of you. Do not let him do this; be consistent. Stop and back him up, then start again, or lead him in a circle, either in front of him or just to the left away from him. Do not let him lead you, and do not let him place you beside his shoulder. When he does this, he has told you that you are his inferior, and he'll do the leading around here, thank you very much. Back him off and keep him out of your space. Travel short distances at first, and always reward the try.

Next Steps

Long, rambling walks, respectful bonding time: these are your next steps. Practice leading your horse safely wherever you go, and be consistent with his position.

A Respectful Horse, A Happy Horse, A Beautiful Relationship

These are the most basic exercises you can start working on immediately to build a strong relationship with your horse that is based on respect and trust. You will always come back to the basic principles behind them, just as the boss in the pasture reasserts her status from time to time. Combined with bonding over grooming (find his itchy spots!), observing your horse in the pasture and relaxing hand grazing, these simple exercises will strengthen your relationship on the ground, laying the foundation for a long and lasting bond with your horse.

http://www.localequine.com is a wiki dedicated to complete, accurate and helpful information on all aspects of horse ownership; readers can peruse the information or join and login to add events to the calendar or recommendations for everything from barefoot trimmers to lesson barns to riding trails to books and other training resources. Currently focused on the southeast, LocalEquine plans to expand up the east coast and west to eventually include local, updated information for all of the lower 48 states. Our goal is to create a community of horse owners who are committed to the holistic care of their equine friends, whether they are free rescue horses or $150,000 Thoroughbreds.

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Thursday, 7 January 2010

Winter Horse Blankets - How To Choose A Turnout Blanket For Your Horse

Horse blankets typically come in three different weights. A lightweight, known as a sheet, a medium weight for cold weather and a heavy weight for very cold weather. Medium and heavy weight blankets are filled for warmth, whereas sheets do not have any filling. When shopping for blankets, you will also see something referring to "denier" with a number beside it. This is a term used to indicate the size or number of filament or yarn. Sort of like thread count in sheets. The higher the number, the heavier the yarn or fiber. I had a young gelding that was always playing and ripping his blankets, so I always opted for blankets with a higher denier. I found one manufacturer that would guarantee their blankets against rips or tears for up to two years. These still ripped, but when they did, the manufacturer would replace the blanket.

If your horse needs to be protected from the cold but will be spending time in the pasture, you will want to use a turn out blanket. These blankets are made with waterproof materials and are designed so that it is hard for horses to become twisted around if the horse decides to roll around on the ground. Except for these added features, the turn out blanket is quite similar to the stable blanket.

Obviously the weight needed for a winter horse blanket depends on where you live and how cold it gets. On extremely frigid days, I have been known to layer multiple blankets on my horse, if needed. Blanket manufacturers will typically tell you what temperatures their blankets are good for. I often place my hand between the blanket and the horse to see if the horse feels warm. If her body temperature feels cool, I know I need to move to a heavier weight. In general, I use a sheet for weather in the 50's a medium weight in the 30s and 40s and a heavy weight for weather in the 20s and teens. I might also use a sheet if it is in the 60s and raining. Wind chill can warrant the need for a warmer blanket. Every horse is different. Older horses or horses that are clipped may require warmer blanketing. So, you have to gauge what is best for your particular climate and your horse's needs.

There are horse stable blankets and sheets that are worn by the horse while it is in the stable or stall. It is not waterproof and should not be worn while the horse is turned out in the paddock or pasture. While these are nice to have, there's no reason why you can't use a turnout blanket while the horse is in the stall.

By: Eileen Childs

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Visit www.beginners-guide-to-horses.com/ for horse related information including, training, behavior, buying guides, home remedies for rain rot, horse grooming for beginners, how to tack up a horse and more.

Wednesday, 6 January 2010

Take Care of Your Horse’s Smile

Here are some facts about the cutting edge of equine dentistry. You may think horse dentistry is a new fad, but there is nothing new under the sun. When our livelihoods depended on equines, horse dentistry was a lively profession for practitioners in every county. Well-known in Europe in the fourteenth century, the observation of horse's teeth goes back at least two thousand years. For the past couple of centuries, Europeans have had a particularly strong interest in horse's teeth. The tools which were being made by the end of the nineteenth century would still not be out of place in a modern horse dentist's set of tools – although diamond technology has brought advances in cutting, burring and grinding tools, which uncannily grind tooth enamel while leaving softer tissues such as the inside of cheeks unscathed on contact. There are currently about 25 horse dentistry tool manufacturers in the U.S.

So, what does an equine dentist do, and which horses could benefit from their practices? An equine dentist basically equilibrates a horse's teeth in a number of ways. Horses in the natural state do not usually require dentistry, the same as they do not require a furrier. Free-roaming horses eat a lot of hard plants with a high woody content, as well as grasses with silicates. These are abrasive substances, which wear down the incisors as the horse tears at the grass stalks. Hay-fed horses do not need to use their incisors in the same way, with the result that these do not get worn down and eventually get so long that the horse cannot close its mouth sufficiently to use the molars to grind its food.

All horses could benefit from the services of an equine dentist, although only a small proportion receives them. Even if your vet checks your horse’s teeth every half year, the chances are very high that there are points on the outside of the upper premolars and molars which are causing either constant discomfort or digging ulcerations in the cheeks. A thorough oral examination requires the use of a full-mouth speculum and a mild sedative or relaxant.

The most discerning owners tend to call in a specialized dentist as standard procedure, because it can improve a horse's performance dramatically and prolong active life for up to a decade. Dental work always improves the horse's digestion, and better food uptake means better performance. Over and above that, a surprising proportion of horses suffer from tooth maladies which affect the way they take the bit. A tendency to resist turning in a particular direction is, for example, a strong indication that the horse has some kind of problem on that side of its mouth. If turning is uncomfortable, the horse is going to act up. It may be simply a question of getting the bit to sit more comfortably to cause an immediate change in the behavior of the horse.

Many horses have persistent problems which cause uneven eating, distortions of facial muscle development and a build-up of pressure, which in turn can lead to constant headaches. When the horse first experiences relief from this, typically during the first session of dental treatment, under mild sedation, the effects can be dramatic. Have you ever seen a horse smile?

Friction can arise between dental practitioners and standard vets, who have very different approaches to dental problems. Typically, a vet is called in to file down teeth when they become long, but tends to do so in a very uniform manner, which does not take into account the natural variations in the horse's own way of grinding, or the angles of the teeth necessary for comfortable eating. Incorrect filing can radically change the angle of impact and effectively prevent the horse from eating.

There is unfortunately no accredited certification program for equine dentistry through veterinary organizations. Ironically, only veterinary practitioners are legally empowered to practice equine dentistry, although many are not capable of the most basic form of it. Vets sometimes act in conjunction with a highly specialized and trained lay-dentist. The equine dentists themselves are a rare breed. Because of the problems they are up against in terms of training programs and chances to practice freely, they tend to be fierce animal lovers with a high commitment to their chosen profession and an almost evangelical passion to spread the word. There is a worldwide network of practitioners, who are in constant consultation for problem-solving and sharing new techniques and findings. A visit from and equine dentist can be as rewarding an experience for the owner as it is for the horse.

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By Jerry Carpos
Published: 10/24/2007