The sport of Steeplechase racing dates back to 1752 in Ireland when two, half-crocked, friends settled the argument over who owned the best horse by racing to the nearest Church steeple after returning from Fox hunting. The winner actually rode right through the church where the vicar was holding a solemn funeral. Soon it spread to England, where in 1792, the first recorded race was held. This sport then crossed over from the Atlantic to the US, where it has became very popular.
In the early 19th century nine prominent men from New York - August Belmont, H. DeCourcy Forbes, Samuel S.Howland, James O. Green, Frederick Gebhard, A.J. Cassatt, Foxhall P. Keene, John G. Follansbee and Frederick H. Prince founded the National Association for Steeplechase. When it was first founded, its mission was to make the sport popular in the US and help it grow across the Atlantic. For membership details and other small tidbits about the Association, you can visit their website at http://www.nsfdn.org/membership.html.
Steeplechase races are held at 12 states across the country and the cumulative purses for these events are $5 million annually. The horse races are a place to see and be seen at. It's seen across the country by millions of fans and admirers and is a major sponsored event where corporate sponsors vie with each other for sponsorship of the events. It attracts the best talent for horses, horse owners, and riders and also raises millions of dollars in charities. Thus it also attracts the most powerful and the influential men and women. If you have seen Pretty Woman, you pretty much have got the idea.
Some of the oldest and the most prestigious steeplechase horse racing events are Montpelier Hunt Races, which was started on the estates of Former President James Madison since 1929. For more information you can visit their site http://www.montpelier.org/races.htm. Others are The American Grand National that began in 1899 and the The National Hunt Cup in Radnor, Pa., which was started in 1909. For more information on steeplechase racing across the country, you can visit http://www.steeplestakes.com/links.html, which lists all the races, their schedules and the prize monies.
In Virginia, you can visit the Virginia Steeplechase association at http://www.vasteeplechase.com/. The big races in Virginia are Virginia Gold Cup, FoxField races at Charlottesville, Virginia, Fairfax Hunt races at Great Falls, Middleburg Spring races at Middleburg, Montpelier Hunt Races at Montpelier Station, Morven park Steeplechase races at Leesburg, Mountaineer chest track in Chester etc.
You can also visit these websites for further information on racing in Virginia.http://www.ctownraces.com/ http://www.colonialdowns.com/ http://www.fairfaxhuntraces.org/ http://www.montpelier.org/ http://www.foxfieldraces.com/ http://www.vagoldcup.com/ http://www.middleburgspringraces.com/
Monday, 25 January 2010
Friday, 22 January 2010
Understanding The Horse Racing Results
When your horse racing software properly outlines every horce racing result, it is a sign that its a reliable one. Here are some common figures and stats that you often see in horse racing software:
Course Date Time Horse Odds Pos Profit Bank
Catt 01-01-2008 14:30 Rapscallion 1.76 2 29.69 1030.20
Ling 03-01-2008 13:35 Dushstorm 1.01 1 -0.30 1041.25
Ling 04-01-2008 14:20 Aigle Dor 2.00 1 -78.69 935.45
Course
The is the first thing that you would see in a horse racing result list. In this column, you will find abbreviations of these horse racing venues such as Catt (Catterick), Extr (Exeter) and Ling (Lingfield). Knowing where the races are is very important information because each track has its distinct qualities which could really determine the outcome of each race.
Date
The dates of the horse races.
Horse
This is a very important column in the horse racing result because you will find the names of the horses that will likely win in that particular race. In the example above, the software predicts that Rapscalloin will likely finish second in the race at Cattrick on January 1, 2008. Meanwhile, Dushstorm will likely finish first in the race at Lingfield on March 1, 2008.
Odds
In a horse racing result, these numbers are particularly interesting because you would know a horse's chances of winning in the race. The higher the odds, the higher the probability that your horse will win. Aigle Dor's odds (2.00), for example, of finishing first are very good. However, there are many factors to consider. Sometimes, betting in a horse with the highest odds of winning may not be too profitable. Because of the poor competition in a particular race, odds may be overestimated. As a result, the software will put all its investments on that particular horse. There are scenarios where the winnings are divided and you would be earning less than you are supposed to. Its a double-edged sword. But most of the time, the races are competitive and the odds are stacked evenly among the horses.
Profit
This is the part of the horse racing result that you should take note of. The profit column shows you your winnings for a particular race. In the example, Rapscallion is predicted to finish second in the race at Cattrick on January 1, 2008. Now, it can happen that the horse may not finish first, but still you can earn some money. The example shows that if Rapscallion would indeed finish second, œ29.69 will be added to your betting bank as profit.
Bank
The last column in the horse racing result simply shows how much money you have in your betting bank.
You can never go wrong when your betting system gives you all the information that you need. You can always be sure that your investment is in the right hands when your software gives you a horse racing result that is easy to understand. After all it is your money that you are concerned about, not the horses.
By: Delrick Mckay
Article Directory: http://www.articledashboard.com
Want more articles about horse racing results, horse racing systems, and horse racing software, go to Horse-Racing-Software now!
Course Date Time Horse Odds Pos Profit Bank
Catt 01-01-2008 14:30 Rapscallion 1.76 2 29.69 1030.20
Ling 03-01-2008 13:35 Dushstorm 1.01 1 -0.30 1041.25
Ling 04-01-2008 14:20 Aigle Dor 2.00 1 -78.69 935.45
Course
The is the first thing that you would see in a horse racing result list. In this column, you will find abbreviations of these horse racing venues such as Catt (Catterick), Extr (Exeter) and Ling (Lingfield). Knowing where the races are is very important information because each track has its distinct qualities which could really determine the outcome of each race.
Date
The dates of the horse races.
Horse
This is a very important column in the horse racing result because you will find the names of the horses that will likely win in that particular race. In the example above, the software predicts that Rapscalloin will likely finish second in the race at Cattrick on January 1, 2008. Meanwhile, Dushstorm will likely finish first in the race at Lingfield on March 1, 2008.
Odds
In a horse racing result, these numbers are particularly interesting because you would know a horse's chances of winning in the race. The higher the odds, the higher the probability that your horse will win. Aigle Dor's odds (2.00), for example, of finishing first are very good. However, there are many factors to consider. Sometimes, betting in a horse with the highest odds of winning may not be too profitable. Because of the poor competition in a particular race, odds may be overestimated. As a result, the software will put all its investments on that particular horse. There are scenarios where the winnings are divided and you would be earning less than you are supposed to. Its a double-edged sword. But most of the time, the races are competitive and the odds are stacked evenly among the horses.
Profit
This is the part of the horse racing result that you should take note of. The profit column shows you your winnings for a particular race. In the example, Rapscallion is predicted to finish second in the race at Cattrick on January 1, 2008. Now, it can happen that the horse may not finish first, but still you can earn some money. The example shows that if Rapscallion would indeed finish second, œ29.69 will be added to your betting bank as profit.
Bank
The last column in the horse racing result simply shows how much money you have in your betting bank.
You can never go wrong when your betting system gives you all the information that you need. You can always be sure that your investment is in the right hands when your software gives you a horse racing result that is easy to understand. After all it is your money that you are concerned about, not the horses.
By: Delrick Mckay
Article Directory: http://www.articledashboard.com
Want more articles about horse racing results, horse racing systems, and horse racing software, go to Horse-Racing-Software now!
Wednesday, 20 January 2010
Four Ways to Teach Your Horse Respect
Respect. These seven letters are absolutely essential to a happy, healthy and enjoyable relationship with your horse. Whether your vision with your horse is of precise dressage circles, long ambling trail rides or eventing, if you don't have respect on the ground you won't have it in the saddle. Gaining your horse's respect is a simple and essential part of horse ownership that helps you build a strong relationship with him, and it starts with understanding why your horse is the way he is.
Understanding Your Horse's Needs
Horses belong in a herd; evolutionarily speaking, horses are prey animals that benefit from numbers. In a running herd, predators have trouble focusing on and bringing down a single animal in a group of 20. An essential part of this herd is its hierarchy. If you spend a day watching your horse in the pasture with other horses you will see constant movement; at first this movement may seem random and aimless, but if you look closely you will see that all movement begins with one horse that sets off a chain reaction among the others. Horses will move and shift constantly, from patch of grass to piles of hay to watering trough, moved around by the boss of the pasture; while your horse may favor one section of grass or area of the pasture, the boss can move him off at will, pinning her ears and lowering her head, perhaps with a snaky, swaying movement or teeth bared, moving towards what she wants with very pointed energy. If your horse does not move when presented with these obvious physical signs, the boss will proceed with more physical interventions, biting or kicking to get the reaction she is looking for. If there are horses lower in the hierarchy than the horse that was moved off, that horse will proceed to move another horse, and then another, and so on until they have all moved to a different patch of grass or pile of hay.
The hierarchy of the dominant horse is fairly stable but can change; even something as simple as putting on a fly mask or a turnout blanket can shake up the herd and result in squeals, kicks and challenges until things settle down again with a (sometimes) new boss. As uncomfortable as it may look from the outside, horses feel safer when they understand who is in charge and where they fall in the ranks of the herd. A lead horse not only says who eats what, when and where but also keeps an eye out for predators and keeps track of new foals; this horse also controls the speed and direction of movement in the event that the herd needs to run from a predator.
A Herd of Two
A horse's need to feel safe as part of a herd's hierarchy does not diminish when it is just you and your horse, and there is only one safe way for you two to form your own herd: you must be the boss. If you do not assert yourself, gaining (and keeping) your horse's respect, you will become the owner of a horse who is (or becomes over time) pushy during feeding time, pushy when being led, pushy under saddle and pushy in general. Eventually you will have a dangerous horse that cannot be trusted on the ground and certainly should not be trusted under saddle. Your horse needs direction and guidance, and if he does not get it from you he will assume he is the one in charge and act accordingly.
Where to Start
When we think of getting our first horse, most of us have images of saddling up and riding, galloping across an open field on a sunny day, or completing a lightening-fast barrel run or dressage pattern or meandering along sun-dappled trails through the woods. Reality is something quite different. If your goal is to build a relationship with your horse that will last their lifetime, the first step is building respect, and respect begins on the ground. For the purposes of this article, we will assume that your horse's most basic needs are being met so that he is receptive to this type of basic training. Your horse should be on a sound and regular feeding schedule designed to keep him at optimum health, and even if you have adopted or purchased a horse that is weak from hunger or illness, you can still address some basic respect issues without harming your horse. If you are unsure, check first with your vet to get the go-ahead, and then proceed slowly, being mindful of your horse's comfort and building from there.
For all exercises that follow, remember to repeat them from both sides of your horse's head, and make sure to practice them regularly and consistently; stay calm and firm when you ask you horse to do something, and reward even his smallest try. A horse that lowers his head and begins to lick his mouth or make chewing motions is a horse who is thinking about what you are asking him to do, and this is what you want: a thoughtful horse. If this is your first time doing groundwork, remember that you are training yourself, too; as you work with your horse, your body language and cues will become clearer and easier to understand, and your horse will relax and follow your lead.
Basic Exercises
The purpose of these first exercises is to show the horse that you control their feet (direction). Going back to the example of the boss horse moving the herd away from their food, remember that the boss was able to get the other horses moving with eye contact and body language. So that's where we'll start. You are looking to get maximum response from minimum pressure, so start small and increase your motions until you get a result, then back off instantly.
Many professional trainers recommend using a rope halter with two knots over the nose, and a ten-foot lead rope. The reason for the rope halters as opposed to a basic web halter is that a stubborn horse can lean against a web halter, effectively resisting your cues and making it nearly impossible for you to feel their slightest try. In a shoving match, your horse will win, and that is not the goal in the first place. You are looking to get maximum response from minimum pressure (a "light" horse), and a rope halter helps you to give smaller cues first and feel the response more quickly than a nylon halter. Do not wait to start until you have a rope halter; groundwork for respect should begin the second the first hoof hits the property! You can always get a different halter later.
There are four basic exercises for respect: backing, releasing the hindquarters, releasing the forequarters and leading.
Backing
Backing is simply getting your horse to move backwards out of your space on command. Not only does backing reinforce the very basic requirements of respect (for the horse to move away when you ask him), but it also makes him safer to approach in the pasture and during feeding time when you ask him to move away from gates or his feeder. There are two basic ways to back your horse: standing at his side beside his ears, or cuing him from in front of his head, facing him.
For the first method, start on either side of your horse, holding a couple inches below the clip on the halter in one hand, and the rest of the lead rope in your other hand (remember not to hold the rope in loops, with your hand in the middle). Putting slight pressure on the halter, step toward the horse's shoulder. You are looking for one step backwards from any foot. If you need to, jiggle the halter slightly with the hand holding the clip and/or add additional pressure back towards the shoulder. Do not hesitate; be firm and sure. Do not release the pressure until your horse steps backwards, then release it instantly. The release of pressure is their reward for doing the right thing. As you progress, your horse should be taking more steps backwards, with more energy and less pressure. This requires patience and persistence. Eventually you want to be able to step towards their shoulder and have them back until you stop. Whichever side you start on, remember to move to the other side of your horse's head and repeat.
The second method is adapted from several different natural horsemanship trainers; each trainer puts their own particular spin on this method. A rope halter does work best with this method, but again it is not required.
Stand in front of your horse's head, just slightly off to one side (you do not want to be in their blind spot directly in front of them, but you also don't want them to move to one side), about four feet away. The first step to this may leave you feeling a little silly; make eye contact with your horse, and think to yourself as hard as you can "Back up." Try to convey just through eye contact the same thing the herd boss would, to get out of your way or else. If your horse does not respond to this (and many will not the first time out), start to gently wiggle the lead rope with one hand while making "sh-sh-sh" noises. Your horse's head may come up slightly, and his ears may prick forward; his listening. Again, here you are looking for one step backwards. Gradually increase the motion of your wrist and the lead rope so that the halter may end up rubbing all over his nose. This is very unpleasant for your horse, and he will want to move away (back!) from it. Do not move towards him; wait for him to move away from you. The second he steps back, stop all wiggling and noise and praise him. You may have to wiggle the rope with pretty big movements at first, but he will figure it out quickly to escape the rubbing halter. As you progress through this exercise, his head should come down when you ask him to back, with very little pressure required. With this method you may be able to get your horse so light and responsive that he backs when he hears the noise!
Work on backing (either method, or both to mix it up) as long as it takes him to take as many energetic steps backwards as you need; go as slow as your horse needs (be patient) but remember that you are establishing your role as the dominant "horse" in your herd of two. If your horse knows what you are asking but lazily moves back on his own time, or only gives one or two steps, increase the pressure until he does what you are telling him to do. The idea is to first ask, then show, then tell him what to do.
Troubleshooting
If you start with a horse that really has no respect for you or your space you will need to march him out of your way at first. With the lead rope in one hand and a dressage crop (or similar crop or training stick without a whip attached) begin marching in place, swinging the crop out in front of your knees and really exaggerating a high-stepping march in place, with hands pumping up and down as well; establish a rhythm in place (while your horse looks at you like you are crazy), then begin marching toward him. Continue your rhythm. If your horse does move, he will get the dressage crop on his chest and a hand on his chin. Your goal is not to hurt your horse, but he needs to know you are serious, so if he is not moving by the time the crop reaches him, make sure he feels it. This is the same as the herd boss baring his teeth and biting out. You are not being mean or beating your horse; if you cannot get him to move out of your way he poses a real threat to your safety. He must understand that you are not to be run over or stepped on, and this teaches him that lesson.
Next Steps
After your horse takes multiple, energetic steps backwards with minimal pressure from you, try backing over trot poles, or try varying the direction by moving your focus further back on his body to his hip (so he'll swing to one side or the other). Once he has learned to back and respect your space, keep his refresher training sessions short and effective so that he stays engaged and willing. It is best to apply these skills to real situations, so after you catch him in the pasture back him for a few steps when you open the gate, or back him into his stall at night.
Releasing (Disengaging) the Hindquarters
The second stage of gaining respect by controlling your horse's direction is getting him to release his hindquarters on command. A horse that is soft and supple in the hindquarters is a horse with beautiful lead flying lead changes, instantaneous sidepass, seamless direction changes and a spook that happens in place, instead of down the road. Some trainers will have you work on lateral flexion (bending their heads softly to one side or the other) prior to moving the hindquarters, but this method can get you moving their feet before they are completely flexed in the neck. As you work on perfecting this you can add lateral flexion, but as our goal is respect and establishing you as the dominant horse, we'll start with movement of the feet and add flexion in next steps.
Start on the near (left) side of the horse, facing his head and standing behind where the girth would be; hold the lead rope in your left hand and place your right arm on your horse's back, without crossing over to the other side. Apply pressure to the lead rope by pulling back slightly, just until your horse turns his head; once the horse turns slightly, release the pressure and let him straighten up. Repeat at least three times on each side. The goal in this case is to get your horse flexing to the side, not to touch their side completely; you just want to see their eye facing you. After the third time, hold the horse's head slightly flexed, drop your right hand down to the side where a rider's heel might ask for movement, and bump his side slightly with the heel of your hand, keeping gentle pressure on the lead rope. Here you are looking for your horse to release his hindquarters, crossing his left hind leg in front of his right hind leg. At the beginning, look for just one step across, and not a shuffle; you need to see one leg cross in front of the other one, not just shuffle around. When you get it, instantly stop bumping and release all pressure, praising verbally and rubbing the spot you were bumping with your hand. Repeat this exercise as many times as necessary to get that one step with light pressure. Eventually you will have a horse who releases quickly, pivoting on the front legs. Remember to practice this on both sides of the horse, and alternate releasing the hindquarters with backing.
Troubleshooting
If your horse moves forward as he releases, he is really just walking a circle around you, and you are looking for a swinging hind end. Release some of the pressure on the halter, as he may think you are trying to walk him, and raise your hand in front of his eye to stop him from walking toward you. Make sure he can feel you bumping his side; you're not playing patty cake. You should definitely reward the try, but make sure your horse understands you mean it when you tell him to do something. You can also step towards his hindquarters with a big movement, and he should move out of your way.
Next Steps
When your horse releases his hindquarters with minimum pressure, pivoting or moving very little with his front legs, add a backing exercise to the end. Give him a little more lead rope, and when he swings to face you, begin to back him up using whichever method works best for you.
Additionally, for a good stretch, you can begin to ask your horse to flex his neck in either direction to touch his side. Stand beside your horse either facing his body or his head, close to the point of his hip, drape the end of your lead rope over your horse's back. If you start on the near side, slide your left hand down the lead rope towards the clip, and when you get about a foot and a half away, pull back and slightly up towards the withers (this is where you would pull towards in the saddle). When the horse stretches back towards his side by any amount, release instantly and let him relax for five to ten seconds before flexing again. Sometimes you can tickle their whiskers if (they have any), and they will reach further; other trainers suggest you take their head in one hand and their tail in the other and get them to stretch to touch their tail. For any of the flexing exercises, a rope halter is almost imperative; a stubborn horse will lie back on the webbing and wait patiently for you to stop asking. If that happens, bump the lead rope slightly and get ready to release if they try even a little. You always want to end on a positive note, right as the horse is working with you and attentive.
Releasing (Disengaging) the Forequarters
Now that you have your horse backing smoothly and releasing the hindquarters lightly, it's time to work on the front end. If the hind is the engine, the front is the steering wheel. Gaining control over your horse's forequarters will give you more confidence when you mount up; he will know you mean business when you are directing him because you laid the foundation of control on the ground.
Stand on either side, approximately parallel to your horse's ear, maybe a little back. You do not want to be too far back, as your horse will feel like you are driving him forward, and you don't want to be too far in front of him, as he will think you are asking him to back up. With the lead rope in one hand, making sure he has enough room so you aren't pulling on his face, but not so much room that he can just move away and avoid the action, raise your hands to eye level, and begin to rhythmically wave both hands toward him. His head will probably come up to avoid your hands; try to keep them at his eye level. If you horse is especially tall, you may want to add a crop or other training stick to lengthen your arm. Again, you are looking for one step, this time one front leg crossing over the other. Increase the pressure every five or so waves by making them move bigger, or thumping on his neck. Your goal here is not to hurt your horse but to imitate the boss in the pasture; when you say move, he needs to MOVE and NOW. For some horses, this may mean a thump or two on the neck, but do check yourself and make sure you are increasing the pressure because it is time, not because you are frustrated.
Troubleshooting
If your horse backs up when you are asking for the release, that is okay; he is trying to figure out what you are asking him to do. Do not increase the level of pressure; stay with him, and keep asking. When he stops backing but still does not respond then you can increase your pressure.
If your horse moves forward to run away from pressure, immediately back him 10-20 steps and start over again. Make sure you are not standing too far back (so your body language is moving him forward), but do not otherwise let him move forward. He is entering your space unbidden, and that is not safe.
Next Steps
Once your horse smoothly releases from both the front and the back, alternate between them; release the hind, then release the front. See if you can get him to release by just looking at the point of his hip or his shoulder. Back in between releases, and make sure to praise and give time to rest.
Leading
The final exercise for gaining your horse's respect on the ground is teaching him how to lead safely. The reasons for the exercise need little explanation; you cannot have a horse that runs up over you, cuts you off, or steps on your feet when you cross in front of him. In the wild, the dominant horse is truly the one in the lead, and all others follow.
If you watch ten different people with their horses, you will see ten different styles of leading. Some people lead with their horse's head in front of them; some lead walking next to their horse's poll; some lead with the rope looped around their horse's neck; some lead with the horse far behind them. For the purpose of gaining respect, you will learn to lead with your horse behind your right shoulder; if your horse is behind you you will be able to cross in front of him without pushing him out of the way, and he will have space to come to a stop without running over you.
To start, back your horse out of your space and make sure his attention is on you. Hold the lead rope loosely across your right palm with about three feet of lead between you and your horse (hold the remainder in your left hand, loosely coiled). The reason you keep your palm open and some rope between you and your horse is to show him that you trust his ability to follow you, and to not keep him so tightly trussed to you that he cannot move. Remember that as a flight animal, a horse's instinct will make him pull away if he feels trapped, and holding him right under his chin or too close to his halter could produce that feeling. Turn your back to your horse, with your shoulders squared. Look in the direction you are going, and in one smooth movement, step forward with the right foot, click with your tongue, and move your right hand forward slightly. To stop, plant both feet and either say, "woah" or blow out through your mouth, hard. You can add a slight squat to this if you like (similar to the motion of trying to stop your horse in the saddle by sitting lower). Walk in circles, making sure to keep your head up and eyes facing where you want to go (your horse is reading your body language from behind), with your horse behind your right shoulder.
Troubleshooting
If your horse is not used to following, or is high strung, or does not quite get the idea of staying out of your space, he will run up on your shoulder or try to surge ahead of you. Do not let him do this; be consistent. Stop and back him up, then start again, or lead him in a circle, either in front of him or just to the left away from him. Do not let him lead you, and do not let him place you beside his shoulder. When he does this, he has told you that you are his inferior, and he'll do the leading around here, thank you very much. Back him off and keep him out of your space. Travel short distances at first, and always reward the try.
Next Steps
Long, rambling walks, respectful bonding time: these are your next steps. Practice leading your horse safely wherever you go, and be consistent with his position.
A Respectful Horse, A Happy Horse, A Beautiful Relationship
These are the most basic exercises you can start working on immediately to build a strong relationship with your horse that is based on respect and trust. You will always come back to the basic principles behind them, just as the boss in the pasture reasserts her status from time to time. Combined with bonding over grooming (find his itchy spots!), observing your horse in the pasture and relaxing hand grazing, these simple exercises will strengthen your relationship on the ground, laying the foundation for a long and lasting bond with your horse.
http://www.localequine.com is a wiki dedicated to complete, accurate and helpful information on all aspects of horse ownership; readers can peruse the information or join and login to add events to the calendar or recommendations for everything from barefoot trimmers to lesson barns to riding trails to books and other training resources. Currently focused on the southeast, LocalEquine plans to expand up the east coast and west to eventually include local, updated information for all of the lower 48 states. Our goal is to create a community of horse owners who are committed to the holistic care of their equine friends, whether they are free rescue horses or $150,000 Thoroughbreds.
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Understanding Your Horse's Needs
Horses belong in a herd; evolutionarily speaking, horses are prey animals that benefit from numbers. In a running herd, predators have trouble focusing on and bringing down a single animal in a group of 20. An essential part of this herd is its hierarchy. If you spend a day watching your horse in the pasture with other horses you will see constant movement; at first this movement may seem random and aimless, but if you look closely you will see that all movement begins with one horse that sets off a chain reaction among the others. Horses will move and shift constantly, from patch of grass to piles of hay to watering trough, moved around by the boss of the pasture; while your horse may favor one section of grass or area of the pasture, the boss can move him off at will, pinning her ears and lowering her head, perhaps with a snaky, swaying movement or teeth bared, moving towards what she wants with very pointed energy. If your horse does not move when presented with these obvious physical signs, the boss will proceed with more physical interventions, biting or kicking to get the reaction she is looking for. If there are horses lower in the hierarchy than the horse that was moved off, that horse will proceed to move another horse, and then another, and so on until they have all moved to a different patch of grass or pile of hay.
The hierarchy of the dominant horse is fairly stable but can change; even something as simple as putting on a fly mask or a turnout blanket can shake up the herd and result in squeals, kicks and challenges until things settle down again with a (sometimes) new boss. As uncomfortable as it may look from the outside, horses feel safer when they understand who is in charge and where they fall in the ranks of the herd. A lead horse not only says who eats what, when and where but also keeps an eye out for predators and keeps track of new foals; this horse also controls the speed and direction of movement in the event that the herd needs to run from a predator.
A Herd of Two
A horse's need to feel safe as part of a herd's hierarchy does not diminish when it is just you and your horse, and there is only one safe way for you two to form your own herd: you must be the boss. If you do not assert yourself, gaining (and keeping) your horse's respect, you will become the owner of a horse who is (or becomes over time) pushy during feeding time, pushy when being led, pushy under saddle and pushy in general. Eventually you will have a dangerous horse that cannot be trusted on the ground and certainly should not be trusted under saddle. Your horse needs direction and guidance, and if he does not get it from you he will assume he is the one in charge and act accordingly.
Where to Start
When we think of getting our first horse, most of us have images of saddling up and riding, galloping across an open field on a sunny day, or completing a lightening-fast barrel run or dressage pattern or meandering along sun-dappled trails through the woods. Reality is something quite different. If your goal is to build a relationship with your horse that will last their lifetime, the first step is building respect, and respect begins on the ground. For the purposes of this article, we will assume that your horse's most basic needs are being met so that he is receptive to this type of basic training. Your horse should be on a sound and regular feeding schedule designed to keep him at optimum health, and even if you have adopted or purchased a horse that is weak from hunger or illness, you can still address some basic respect issues without harming your horse. If you are unsure, check first with your vet to get the go-ahead, and then proceed slowly, being mindful of your horse's comfort and building from there.
For all exercises that follow, remember to repeat them from both sides of your horse's head, and make sure to practice them regularly and consistently; stay calm and firm when you ask you horse to do something, and reward even his smallest try. A horse that lowers his head and begins to lick his mouth or make chewing motions is a horse who is thinking about what you are asking him to do, and this is what you want: a thoughtful horse. If this is your first time doing groundwork, remember that you are training yourself, too; as you work with your horse, your body language and cues will become clearer and easier to understand, and your horse will relax and follow your lead.
Basic Exercises
The purpose of these first exercises is to show the horse that you control their feet (direction). Going back to the example of the boss horse moving the herd away from their food, remember that the boss was able to get the other horses moving with eye contact and body language. So that's where we'll start. You are looking to get maximum response from minimum pressure, so start small and increase your motions until you get a result, then back off instantly.
Many professional trainers recommend using a rope halter with two knots over the nose, and a ten-foot lead rope. The reason for the rope halters as opposed to a basic web halter is that a stubborn horse can lean against a web halter, effectively resisting your cues and making it nearly impossible for you to feel their slightest try. In a shoving match, your horse will win, and that is not the goal in the first place. You are looking to get maximum response from minimum pressure (a "light" horse), and a rope halter helps you to give smaller cues first and feel the response more quickly than a nylon halter. Do not wait to start until you have a rope halter; groundwork for respect should begin the second the first hoof hits the property! You can always get a different halter later.
There are four basic exercises for respect: backing, releasing the hindquarters, releasing the forequarters and leading.
Backing
Backing is simply getting your horse to move backwards out of your space on command. Not only does backing reinforce the very basic requirements of respect (for the horse to move away when you ask him), but it also makes him safer to approach in the pasture and during feeding time when you ask him to move away from gates or his feeder. There are two basic ways to back your horse: standing at his side beside his ears, or cuing him from in front of his head, facing him.
For the first method, start on either side of your horse, holding a couple inches below the clip on the halter in one hand, and the rest of the lead rope in your other hand (remember not to hold the rope in loops, with your hand in the middle). Putting slight pressure on the halter, step toward the horse's shoulder. You are looking for one step backwards from any foot. If you need to, jiggle the halter slightly with the hand holding the clip and/or add additional pressure back towards the shoulder. Do not hesitate; be firm and sure. Do not release the pressure until your horse steps backwards, then release it instantly. The release of pressure is their reward for doing the right thing. As you progress, your horse should be taking more steps backwards, with more energy and less pressure. This requires patience and persistence. Eventually you want to be able to step towards their shoulder and have them back until you stop. Whichever side you start on, remember to move to the other side of your horse's head and repeat.
The second method is adapted from several different natural horsemanship trainers; each trainer puts their own particular spin on this method. A rope halter does work best with this method, but again it is not required.
Stand in front of your horse's head, just slightly off to one side (you do not want to be in their blind spot directly in front of them, but you also don't want them to move to one side), about four feet away. The first step to this may leave you feeling a little silly; make eye contact with your horse, and think to yourself as hard as you can "Back up." Try to convey just through eye contact the same thing the herd boss would, to get out of your way or else. If your horse does not respond to this (and many will not the first time out), start to gently wiggle the lead rope with one hand while making "sh-sh-sh" noises. Your horse's head may come up slightly, and his ears may prick forward; his listening. Again, here you are looking for one step backwards. Gradually increase the motion of your wrist and the lead rope so that the halter may end up rubbing all over his nose. This is very unpleasant for your horse, and he will want to move away (back!) from it. Do not move towards him; wait for him to move away from you. The second he steps back, stop all wiggling and noise and praise him. You may have to wiggle the rope with pretty big movements at first, but he will figure it out quickly to escape the rubbing halter. As you progress through this exercise, his head should come down when you ask him to back, with very little pressure required. With this method you may be able to get your horse so light and responsive that he backs when he hears the noise!
Work on backing (either method, or both to mix it up) as long as it takes him to take as many energetic steps backwards as you need; go as slow as your horse needs (be patient) but remember that you are establishing your role as the dominant "horse" in your herd of two. If your horse knows what you are asking but lazily moves back on his own time, or only gives one or two steps, increase the pressure until he does what you are telling him to do. The idea is to first ask, then show, then tell him what to do.
Troubleshooting
If you start with a horse that really has no respect for you or your space you will need to march him out of your way at first. With the lead rope in one hand and a dressage crop (or similar crop or training stick without a whip attached) begin marching in place, swinging the crop out in front of your knees and really exaggerating a high-stepping march in place, with hands pumping up and down as well; establish a rhythm in place (while your horse looks at you like you are crazy), then begin marching toward him. Continue your rhythm. If your horse does move, he will get the dressage crop on his chest and a hand on his chin. Your goal is not to hurt your horse, but he needs to know you are serious, so if he is not moving by the time the crop reaches him, make sure he feels it. This is the same as the herd boss baring his teeth and biting out. You are not being mean or beating your horse; if you cannot get him to move out of your way he poses a real threat to your safety. He must understand that you are not to be run over or stepped on, and this teaches him that lesson.
Next Steps
After your horse takes multiple, energetic steps backwards with minimal pressure from you, try backing over trot poles, or try varying the direction by moving your focus further back on his body to his hip (so he'll swing to one side or the other). Once he has learned to back and respect your space, keep his refresher training sessions short and effective so that he stays engaged and willing. It is best to apply these skills to real situations, so after you catch him in the pasture back him for a few steps when you open the gate, or back him into his stall at night.
Releasing (Disengaging) the Hindquarters
The second stage of gaining respect by controlling your horse's direction is getting him to release his hindquarters on command. A horse that is soft and supple in the hindquarters is a horse with beautiful lead flying lead changes, instantaneous sidepass, seamless direction changes and a spook that happens in place, instead of down the road. Some trainers will have you work on lateral flexion (bending their heads softly to one side or the other) prior to moving the hindquarters, but this method can get you moving their feet before they are completely flexed in the neck. As you work on perfecting this you can add lateral flexion, but as our goal is respect and establishing you as the dominant horse, we'll start with movement of the feet and add flexion in next steps.
Start on the near (left) side of the horse, facing his head and standing behind where the girth would be; hold the lead rope in your left hand and place your right arm on your horse's back, without crossing over to the other side. Apply pressure to the lead rope by pulling back slightly, just until your horse turns his head; once the horse turns slightly, release the pressure and let him straighten up. Repeat at least three times on each side. The goal in this case is to get your horse flexing to the side, not to touch their side completely; you just want to see their eye facing you. After the third time, hold the horse's head slightly flexed, drop your right hand down to the side where a rider's heel might ask for movement, and bump his side slightly with the heel of your hand, keeping gentle pressure on the lead rope. Here you are looking for your horse to release his hindquarters, crossing his left hind leg in front of his right hind leg. At the beginning, look for just one step across, and not a shuffle; you need to see one leg cross in front of the other one, not just shuffle around. When you get it, instantly stop bumping and release all pressure, praising verbally and rubbing the spot you were bumping with your hand. Repeat this exercise as many times as necessary to get that one step with light pressure. Eventually you will have a horse who releases quickly, pivoting on the front legs. Remember to practice this on both sides of the horse, and alternate releasing the hindquarters with backing.
Troubleshooting
If your horse moves forward as he releases, he is really just walking a circle around you, and you are looking for a swinging hind end. Release some of the pressure on the halter, as he may think you are trying to walk him, and raise your hand in front of his eye to stop him from walking toward you. Make sure he can feel you bumping his side; you're not playing patty cake. You should definitely reward the try, but make sure your horse understands you mean it when you tell him to do something. You can also step towards his hindquarters with a big movement, and he should move out of your way.
Next Steps
When your horse releases his hindquarters with minimum pressure, pivoting or moving very little with his front legs, add a backing exercise to the end. Give him a little more lead rope, and when he swings to face you, begin to back him up using whichever method works best for you.
Additionally, for a good stretch, you can begin to ask your horse to flex his neck in either direction to touch his side. Stand beside your horse either facing his body or his head, close to the point of his hip, drape the end of your lead rope over your horse's back. If you start on the near side, slide your left hand down the lead rope towards the clip, and when you get about a foot and a half away, pull back and slightly up towards the withers (this is where you would pull towards in the saddle). When the horse stretches back towards his side by any amount, release instantly and let him relax for five to ten seconds before flexing again. Sometimes you can tickle their whiskers if (they have any), and they will reach further; other trainers suggest you take their head in one hand and their tail in the other and get them to stretch to touch their tail. For any of the flexing exercises, a rope halter is almost imperative; a stubborn horse will lie back on the webbing and wait patiently for you to stop asking. If that happens, bump the lead rope slightly and get ready to release if they try even a little. You always want to end on a positive note, right as the horse is working with you and attentive.
Releasing (Disengaging) the Forequarters
Now that you have your horse backing smoothly and releasing the hindquarters lightly, it's time to work on the front end. If the hind is the engine, the front is the steering wheel. Gaining control over your horse's forequarters will give you more confidence when you mount up; he will know you mean business when you are directing him because you laid the foundation of control on the ground.
Stand on either side, approximately parallel to your horse's ear, maybe a little back. You do not want to be too far back, as your horse will feel like you are driving him forward, and you don't want to be too far in front of him, as he will think you are asking him to back up. With the lead rope in one hand, making sure he has enough room so you aren't pulling on his face, but not so much room that he can just move away and avoid the action, raise your hands to eye level, and begin to rhythmically wave both hands toward him. His head will probably come up to avoid your hands; try to keep them at his eye level. If you horse is especially tall, you may want to add a crop or other training stick to lengthen your arm. Again, you are looking for one step, this time one front leg crossing over the other. Increase the pressure every five or so waves by making them move bigger, or thumping on his neck. Your goal here is not to hurt your horse but to imitate the boss in the pasture; when you say move, he needs to MOVE and NOW. For some horses, this may mean a thump or two on the neck, but do check yourself and make sure you are increasing the pressure because it is time, not because you are frustrated.
Troubleshooting
If your horse backs up when you are asking for the release, that is okay; he is trying to figure out what you are asking him to do. Do not increase the level of pressure; stay with him, and keep asking. When he stops backing but still does not respond then you can increase your pressure.
If your horse moves forward to run away from pressure, immediately back him 10-20 steps and start over again. Make sure you are not standing too far back (so your body language is moving him forward), but do not otherwise let him move forward. He is entering your space unbidden, and that is not safe.
Next Steps
Once your horse smoothly releases from both the front and the back, alternate between them; release the hind, then release the front. See if you can get him to release by just looking at the point of his hip or his shoulder. Back in between releases, and make sure to praise and give time to rest.
Leading
The final exercise for gaining your horse's respect on the ground is teaching him how to lead safely. The reasons for the exercise need little explanation; you cannot have a horse that runs up over you, cuts you off, or steps on your feet when you cross in front of him. In the wild, the dominant horse is truly the one in the lead, and all others follow.
If you watch ten different people with their horses, you will see ten different styles of leading. Some people lead with their horse's head in front of them; some lead walking next to their horse's poll; some lead with the rope looped around their horse's neck; some lead with the horse far behind them. For the purpose of gaining respect, you will learn to lead with your horse behind your right shoulder; if your horse is behind you you will be able to cross in front of him without pushing him out of the way, and he will have space to come to a stop without running over you.
To start, back your horse out of your space and make sure his attention is on you. Hold the lead rope loosely across your right palm with about three feet of lead between you and your horse (hold the remainder in your left hand, loosely coiled). The reason you keep your palm open and some rope between you and your horse is to show him that you trust his ability to follow you, and to not keep him so tightly trussed to you that he cannot move. Remember that as a flight animal, a horse's instinct will make him pull away if he feels trapped, and holding him right under his chin or too close to his halter could produce that feeling. Turn your back to your horse, with your shoulders squared. Look in the direction you are going, and in one smooth movement, step forward with the right foot, click with your tongue, and move your right hand forward slightly. To stop, plant both feet and either say, "woah" or blow out through your mouth, hard. You can add a slight squat to this if you like (similar to the motion of trying to stop your horse in the saddle by sitting lower). Walk in circles, making sure to keep your head up and eyes facing where you want to go (your horse is reading your body language from behind), with your horse behind your right shoulder.
Troubleshooting
If your horse is not used to following, or is high strung, or does not quite get the idea of staying out of your space, he will run up on your shoulder or try to surge ahead of you. Do not let him do this; be consistent. Stop and back him up, then start again, or lead him in a circle, either in front of him or just to the left away from him. Do not let him lead you, and do not let him place you beside his shoulder. When he does this, he has told you that you are his inferior, and he'll do the leading around here, thank you very much. Back him off and keep him out of your space. Travel short distances at first, and always reward the try.
Next Steps
Long, rambling walks, respectful bonding time: these are your next steps. Practice leading your horse safely wherever you go, and be consistent with his position.
A Respectful Horse, A Happy Horse, A Beautiful Relationship
These are the most basic exercises you can start working on immediately to build a strong relationship with your horse that is based on respect and trust. You will always come back to the basic principles behind them, just as the boss in the pasture reasserts her status from time to time. Combined with bonding over grooming (find his itchy spots!), observing your horse in the pasture and relaxing hand grazing, these simple exercises will strengthen your relationship on the ground, laying the foundation for a long and lasting bond with your horse.
http://www.localequine.com is a wiki dedicated to complete, accurate and helpful information on all aspects of horse ownership; readers can peruse the information or join and login to add events to the calendar or recommendations for everything from barefoot trimmers to lesson barns to riding trails to books and other training resources. Currently focused on the southeast, LocalEquine plans to expand up the east coast and west to eventually include local, updated information for all of the lower 48 states. Our goal is to create a community of horse owners who are committed to the holistic care of their equine friends, whether they are free rescue horses or $150,000 Thoroughbreds.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Suzannah_Kolbeck
Thursday, 7 January 2010
Winter Horse Blankets - How To Choose A Turnout Blanket For Your Horse
Horse blankets typically come in three different weights. A lightweight, known as a sheet, a medium weight for cold weather and a heavy weight for very cold weather. Medium and heavy weight blankets are filled for warmth, whereas sheets do not have any filling. When shopping for blankets, you will also see something referring to "denier" with a number beside it. This is a term used to indicate the size or number of filament or yarn. Sort of like thread count in sheets. The higher the number, the heavier the yarn or fiber. I had a young gelding that was always playing and ripping his blankets, so I always opted for blankets with a higher denier. I found one manufacturer that would guarantee their blankets against rips or tears for up to two years. These still ripped, but when they did, the manufacturer would replace the blanket.
If your horse needs to be protected from the cold but will be spending time in the pasture, you will want to use a turn out blanket. These blankets are made with waterproof materials and are designed so that it is hard for horses to become twisted around if the horse decides to roll around on the ground. Except for these added features, the turn out blanket is quite similar to the stable blanket.
Obviously the weight needed for a winter horse blanket depends on where you live and how cold it gets. On extremely frigid days, I have been known to layer multiple blankets on my horse, if needed. Blanket manufacturers will typically tell you what temperatures their blankets are good for. I often place my hand between the blanket and the horse to see if the horse feels warm. If her body temperature feels cool, I know I need to move to a heavier weight. In general, I use a sheet for weather in the 50's a medium weight in the 30s and 40s and a heavy weight for weather in the 20s and teens. I might also use a sheet if it is in the 60s and raining. Wind chill can warrant the need for a warmer blanket. Every horse is different. Older horses or horses that are clipped may require warmer blanketing. So, you have to gauge what is best for your particular climate and your horse's needs.
There are horse stable blankets and sheets that are worn by the horse while it is in the stable or stall. It is not waterproof and should not be worn while the horse is turned out in the paddock or pasture. While these are nice to have, there's no reason why you can't use a turnout blanket while the horse is in the stall.
By: Eileen Childs
Article Directory: http://www.articledashboard.com
Visit www.beginners-guide-to-horses.com/ for horse related information including, training, behavior, buying guides, home remedies for rain rot, horse grooming for beginners, how to tack up a horse and more.
If your horse needs to be protected from the cold but will be spending time in the pasture, you will want to use a turn out blanket. These blankets are made with waterproof materials and are designed so that it is hard for horses to become twisted around if the horse decides to roll around on the ground. Except for these added features, the turn out blanket is quite similar to the stable blanket.
Obviously the weight needed for a winter horse blanket depends on where you live and how cold it gets. On extremely frigid days, I have been known to layer multiple blankets on my horse, if needed. Blanket manufacturers will typically tell you what temperatures their blankets are good for. I often place my hand between the blanket and the horse to see if the horse feels warm. If her body temperature feels cool, I know I need to move to a heavier weight. In general, I use a sheet for weather in the 50's a medium weight in the 30s and 40s and a heavy weight for weather in the 20s and teens. I might also use a sheet if it is in the 60s and raining. Wind chill can warrant the need for a warmer blanket. Every horse is different. Older horses or horses that are clipped may require warmer blanketing. So, you have to gauge what is best for your particular climate and your horse's needs.
There are horse stable blankets and sheets that are worn by the horse while it is in the stable or stall. It is not waterproof and should not be worn while the horse is turned out in the paddock or pasture. While these are nice to have, there's no reason why you can't use a turnout blanket while the horse is in the stall.
By: Eileen Childs
Article Directory: http://www.articledashboard.com
Visit www.beginners-guide-to-horses.com/ for horse related information including, training, behavior, buying guides, home remedies for rain rot, horse grooming for beginners, how to tack up a horse and more.
Wednesday, 6 January 2010
Take Care of Your Horse’s Smile
Here are some facts about the cutting edge of equine dentistry. You may think horse dentistry is a new fad, but there is nothing new under the sun. When our livelihoods depended on equines, horse dentistry was a lively profession for practitioners in every county. Well-known in Europe in the fourteenth century, the observation of horse's teeth goes back at least two thousand years. For the past couple of centuries, Europeans have had a particularly strong interest in horse's teeth. The tools which were being made by the end of the nineteenth century would still not be out of place in a modern horse dentist's set of tools – although diamond technology has brought advances in cutting, burring and grinding tools, which uncannily grind tooth enamel while leaving softer tissues such as the inside of cheeks unscathed on contact. There are currently about 25 horse dentistry tool manufacturers in the U.S.
So, what does an equine dentist do, and which horses could benefit from their practices? An equine dentist basically equilibrates a horse's teeth in a number of ways. Horses in the natural state do not usually require dentistry, the same as they do not require a furrier. Free-roaming horses eat a lot of hard plants with a high woody content, as well as grasses with silicates. These are abrasive substances, which wear down the incisors as the horse tears at the grass stalks. Hay-fed horses do not need to use their incisors in the same way, with the result that these do not get worn down and eventually get so long that the horse cannot close its mouth sufficiently to use the molars to grind its food.
All horses could benefit from the services of an equine dentist, although only a small proportion receives them. Even if your vet checks your horse’s teeth every half year, the chances are very high that there are points on the outside of the upper premolars and molars which are causing either constant discomfort or digging ulcerations in the cheeks. A thorough oral examination requires the use of a full-mouth speculum and a mild sedative or relaxant.
The most discerning owners tend to call in a specialized dentist as standard procedure, because it can improve a horse's performance dramatically and prolong active life for up to a decade. Dental work always improves the horse's digestion, and better food uptake means better performance. Over and above that, a surprising proportion of horses suffer from tooth maladies which affect the way they take the bit. A tendency to resist turning in a particular direction is, for example, a strong indication that the horse has some kind of problem on that side of its mouth. If turning is uncomfortable, the horse is going to act up. It may be simply a question of getting the bit to sit more comfortably to cause an immediate change in the behavior of the horse.
Many horses have persistent problems which cause uneven eating, distortions of facial muscle development and a build-up of pressure, which in turn can lead to constant headaches. When the horse first experiences relief from this, typically during the first session of dental treatment, under mild sedation, the effects can be dramatic. Have you ever seen a horse smile?
Friction can arise between dental practitioners and standard vets, who have very different approaches to dental problems. Typically, a vet is called in to file down teeth when they become long, but tends to do so in a very uniform manner, which does not take into account the natural variations in the horse's own way of grinding, or the angles of the teeth necessary for comfortable eating. Incorrect filing can radically change the angle of impact and effectively prevent the horse from eating.
There is unfortunately no accredited certification program for equine dentistry through veterinary organizations. Ironically, only veterinary practitioners are legally empowered to practice equine dentistry, although many are not capable of the most basic form of it. Vets sometimes act in conjunction with a highly specialized and trained lay-dentist. The equine dentists themselves are a rare breed. Because of the problems they are up against in terms of training programs and chances to practice freely, they tend to be fierce animal lovers with a high commitment to their chosen profession and an almost evangelical passion to spread the word. There is a worldwide network of practitioners, who are in constant consultation for problem-solving and sharing new techniques and findings. A visit from and equine dentist can be as rewarding an experience for the owner as it is for the horse.
For pet portrait paintings let portrait artists like Jerry Carpos do the job. They will turn any ordinary pet photo into oil painting horse portraits.
By Jerry Carpos
Published: 10/24/2007
So, what does an equine dentist do, and which horses could benefit from their practices? An equine dentist basically equilibrates a horse's teeth in a number of ways. Horses in the natural state do not usually require dentistry, the same as they do not require a furrier. Free-roaming horses eat a lot of hard plants with a high woody content, as well as grasses with silicates. These are abrasive substances, which wear down the incisors as the horse tears at the grass stalks. Hay-fed horses do not need to use their incisors in the same way, with the result that these do not get worn down and eventually get so long that the horse cannot close its mouth sufficiently to use the molars to grind its food.
All horses could benefit from the services of an equine dentist, although only a small proportion receives them. Even if your vet checks your horse’s teeth every half year, the chances are very high that there are points on the outside of the upper premolars and molars which are causing either constant discomfort or digging ulcerations in the cheeks. A thorough oral examination requires the use of a full-mouth speculum and a mild sedative or relaxant.
The most discerning owners tend to call in a specialized dentist as standard procedure, because it can improve a horse's performance dramatically and prolong active life for up to a decade. Dental work always improves the horse's digestion, and better food uptake means better performance. Over and above that, a surprising proportion of horses suffer from tooth maladies which affect the way they take the bit. A tendency to resist turning in a particular direction is, for example, a strong indication that the horse has some kind of problem on that side of its mouth. If turning is uncomfortable, the horse is going to act up. It may be simply a question of getting the bit to sit more comfortably to cause an immediate change in the behavior of the horse.
Many horses have persistent problems which cause uneven eating, distortions of facial muscle development and a build-up of pressure, which in turn can lead to constant headaches. When the horse first experiences relief from this, typically during the first session of dental treatment, under mild sedation, the effects can be dramatic. Have you ever seen a horse smile?
Friction can arise between dental practitioners and standard vets, who have very different approaches to dental problems. Typically, a vet is called in to file down teeth when they become long, but tends to do so in a very uniform manner, which does not take into account the natural variations in the horse's own way of grinding, or the angles of the teeth necessary for comfortable eating. Incorrect filing can radically change the angle of impact and effectively prevent the horse from eating.
There is unfortunately no accredited certification program for equine dentistry through veterinary organizations. Ironically, only veterinary practitioners are legally empowered to practice equine dentistry, although many are not capable of the most basic form of it. Vets sometimes act in conjunction with a highly specialized and trained lay-dentist. The equine dentists themselves are a rare breed. Because of the problems they are up against in terms of training programs and chances to practice freely, they tend to be fierce animal lovers with a high commitment to their chosen profession and an almost evangelical passion to spread the word. There is a worldwide network of practitioners, who are in constant consultation for problem-solving and sharing new techniques and findings. A visit from and equine dentist can be as rewarding an experience for the owner as it is for the horse.
For pet portrait paintings let portrait artists like Jerry Carpos do the job. They will turn any ordinary pet photo into oil painting horse portraits.
By Jerry Carpos
Published: 10/24/2007
Monday, 4 January 2010
My Review of the Book "The Man Who Listens to Horses"
"The Dog Whisperer" is a popular television show in which a man uses his ability to communicate with dogs to help and train them. Along comes the book "The Man Who Listens to Horses" which tells a similar story about a man who is able to communicate with horses. Monty Roberts is the author, and this is truly a fascinating book that will take the reader on a journey into the internal workings of a horse's mind. In this article we will not only review this book, but offer some glimpses into some of the highlights as well.
Monty Roberts has a story to tell; not only of himself, but of the horses he loves so much. Monty grew up in an abusive household, and his father was abusive not only to him, but to his horses as well. As Monty grew older he started to formulate a different viewpoint. There must be a better way to communicate with the horses that he loves so much, and he was determined to find out what it was.
The "join-up" technique is the author's technique to break and train horses. The book goes into great detail on the process, but here it is in a nutshell. You need a round pen and an unbroken horse to start. The handler will stand in the middle of the pen in a very authoritative and imposing way, while the horse is encouraged to run around the pen in attempts to get away. During the process the handler will be looking for signs that the horse wishes to communicate with him. These three signs are:
The ear of the horse that is closest to the handler will turn towards him/her.
The horse will begin a process of licking and chewing.
As the horse runs around the pen he will move his head closer to the ground.
When the handler is assured that the horse wishes to communicate, he/she will turn his back and start to gradually move away. The horse will then come closer to the handler, and permit the handler to touch him. Now that contact has been established, the saddling, bridling, mounting, and riding process can begin.
The book takes us on a journey into Robert's life (in addition to the "join-up" technique). We learn of the various stages of his life and the events that have helped to shape his view of horses, and the techniques he has developed along the way. Some of the highlights are:
-The author's successful childhood riding career
-The author's relationship with his father
-The Thoroughbred racehorse facility that the author developed
-His meeting with Queen Elizabeth II of England
-Wild deer and the use of the "join-up" technique
-His experience with mustang horses
-Three of his favorite horses: Dually, Brownie, and Johnny Tivio
Anyone who loves horses and is looking for a humane way to communicate with them and train them should check out this book. Read it over and let the information wrap around your mind.
Interested in Horse Jewelry? Stop by Barb Jackson's site where you can find out all about Beautiful Horse Jewelry for that perfect "someone".
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Bobby_A._Spider
Monty Roberts has a story to tell; not only of himself, but of the horses he loves so much. Monty grew up in an abusive household, and his father was abusive not only to him, but to his horses as well. As Monty grew older he started to formulate a different viewpoint. There must be a better way to communicate with the horses that he loves so much, and he was determined to find out what it was.
The "join-up" technique is the author's technique to break and train horses. The book goes into great detail on the process, but here it is in a nutshell. You need a round pen and an unbroken horse to start. The handler will stand in the middle of the pen in a very authoritative and imposing way, while the horse is encouraged to run around the pen in attempts to get away. During the process the handler will be looking for signs that the horse wishes to communicate with him. These three signs are:
The ear of the horse that is closest to the handler will turn towards him/her.
The horse will begin a process of licking and chewing.
As the horse runs around the pen he will move his head closer to the ground.
When the handler is assured that the horse wishes to communicate, he/she will turn his back and start to gradually move away. The horse will then come closer to the handler, and permit the handler to touch him. Now that contact has been established, the saddling, bridling, mounting, and riding process can begin.
The book takes us on a journey into Robert's life (in addition to the "join-up" technique). We learn of the various stages of his life and the events that have helped to shape his view of horses, and the techniques he has developed along the way. Some of the highlights are:
-The author's successful childhood riding career
-The author's relationship with his father
-The Thoroughbred racehorse facility that the author developed
-His meeting with Queen Elizabeth II of England
-Wild deer and the use of the "join-up" technique
-His experience with mustang horses
-Three of his favorite horses: Dually, Brownie, and Johnny Tivio
Anyone who loves horses and is looking for a humane way to communicate with them and train them should check out this book. Read it over and let the information wrap around your mind.
Interested in Horse Jewelry? Stop by Barb Jackson's site where you can find out all about Beautiful Horse Jewelry for that perfect "someone".
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Bobby_A._Spider
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